Although Café Con Leche makes a fine version of its namesake, and has a casual party atmosphere with its Smarties-colored walls and outdoor seating with straw umbrellas, the real reason to stop in at either of its UWS locations is to get stuffed on chef Martin Cisnero's homestyle Cuban cooking. Excuse me, but where has Lambi ($10.95) been all my life? Café Con Leche serves an XL portion of this flavor-fest dish of conch, onions, peppers and cilantro simmered in a mildly spicy tomato sauce. With it, like all of their main dishes, you can get your choice of Cuban rice and beans (choice of white or yellow rice and black or red beans) or sticky, sweet plantains. House specialties are the Mofongo ($5.95), green plantains with pork rinds; Pernil Asado ($9.95), slow roasted, juicy slices of pork; and an ample-enough-for-two saffron-free paella ($18.95) with lobster, chicken, chorizo, mussels, clams, shrimp and squid. But there's no shortage of Latin American standards like Cuban steak and chicken sandwiches ranging from $3.50 to $7; Arroz con Pollo, Camarones y Chorizo (12.95); Ropa Vieja (9.75) and Bacalao Salad ($6.95). With an extensive choice of reasonably priced cocktails including, of course, mojitos ($5.95) and Cuba Libres ($5.50), along with sangria and all kinds of margaritas ($5.95), it's easy to spend a few hours under the umbrellas and drink to Fidel's recovery. 

424 Amsterdam Ave. (betw. 80th & 81st St.) &
726 Amsterdam Ave. (betw. 95th & 96th Sts.),
212-678-7000.