By Kari Milchman

If you want good barbeque, head to Memphis or Kansas City…or New York City? Yep, at last us Northerners can indulge in that sweet, smoky cuisine without leaving the bustle of our inhospitable town. In a place like New York where almost everyone’s from somewhere else, it’s about time a place opened up that can quiet a restless tummy whether you’re hungry or homesick, no matter where home may be. And Rack & Soul does just that with its combination of barbeque and soul food. Pitmaster John Wheeler and co-chef Charles Gabriel of Charles’ Southern Style Kitchen in Harlem dish up these southern comforts in the Upper West Side—and a better version you will not find (south of 125th, at least).

The decor is nothing special, with red vinyl booths and some small tables that look as though they could never bear the weight of the food they display. The place was formerly a hole-in-the-wall chicken joint that won’t be missed. Now, everything is immaculately clean and the service, though a little spotty, is with a smile. But none of this matters because going to Rack & Soul for the ambience is like going to a strip club for drinks—so not the point. Though there is a short beer (including Abita and Gosser for $5.50) and wine list (served in a water glass, most for $7), the idea here, plain and simple, is the meat.

You can’t go wrong no matter what farmyard friend you choose, so go ahead and opt for the combo platter ($15.95) with a quarter rack of BBQ baby back ribs and two pieces of fried chicken. I would say the ribs are finger lickin’ good, but they’re so tender there’s no need to even pick one up, the meat obligingly falls right off the bone. The fried chicken is equally delicious, not too dry and encrusted in a batter with actual taste—I mean other than fried flavor. It gets cooked in a cast iron pan with soy oil and comes out completely grease-free. 

The BBQ beef short ribs ($17.95) and the BBQ half chicken ($13.95) are succulent, lacquered in an almost caramelized sauce lending it both a sweet and bitter flavor. The BBQ pulled pork ($15.95) is the essence of smoky goodness, albeit slightly dry, though that may be the price you pay for perfectly lean meat. The use of barbeque sauce is restrained so each dish tastes distinct, which means you’re tasting the actual meat. But if you like your barbeque smothered in sauce, you can add either the house-made sweet or spicy option.

Each entree comes with a choice of two sides. The baked beans are great, with, you guessed it, chunks of tender meat. The coleslaw is perfectly creamy without being soupy. The lima beans are delish, though be prepared for Southern-style veggies, meaning they’re cooked to a mush. The macaroni and cheese is oddly yummy, too, though it lacks creaminess. If you get the fried chicken, pair it with a waffle for a soul food classic (and they even have real maple syrup for those who can’t eat the golden grid without pools of sweetness). But I prefer meeting my carbohydrate requirement with a biscuit, the likes of which are, by far, the best I’ve ever had. Served warm, these are moist and flaky with a light honey glaze over the top, a perfect complement to the slightly salty batter.

If you somehow have room for dessert, go for the pecan pie ($5), which is more like a tart and chock full o’ nuts. Aside from the deserts and a couple of sides, Rack & Soul is not vegetarian friendly. But then, nor is it great for people who just aren’t particularly fond of eating. Being neither of those myself, you can trust me when I say these guys cook up comfort food better than most. So why go home or go south when you can go to Rack & Soul?

Rack & Soul

2818 Broadway (at 109th St.)

212-222-2800