Being a restaurateur is a hard-knock life and staying afloat depends on, making pots of money. The easiest road to solvency hasn’t changed for generations: alcohol. Well, duh.
Everyone knows about the huge markup charged for wine, beer and the hard stuff at most eateries. Of course, the highway robbery is worse at some places over others. Often, a restaurant’s rules allow diners to bring their own bottle while the place waits for a liquor license. Some owners never get a license—blame it on bureaucracy or chalk it up to a mellow outlook on the restaurant biz. Whatever the case, it doesn’t matter to me: I’d always rather bring my own since I’m often broke and a connoisseur of my own preferred beverages.
B.Y.O.B. (bringing your own booze), is far cheaper than buying it from the restaurant. And since you’re already economizing, you can “splurge” at the liquor store to avoid choosing the cheapest selection on the wine list—my usual style, unless someone else is paying. Apart from the price, there’s also something delightfully renegade about drinking your own hooch—sorta like rolling your own ciggies—a far cry from the big buck mentality rampant at most New York eating establishment, making for a cozier atmosphere.
Many restaurants will allow diners to bring their own bottle after a corkage fee is added to the bill, ranging from $4 to $25 (although I’ve seen the gouge as high as 50 bucks). It’s worthwhile for a fine vintage or special occasion, but to pay extra for your own wine hardly seems fair.
This selection of favorite B.Y.O.B. restaurants all welcome a brown bag under arm with a smile.
Poke is one of my favorite sushi places and, although they have a selection of teas, you’re up to your own devices if you want sake in your future. But it may be best to opt for a warm sake since the staff aren’t able to provide anything to keep the sake chilled. Same goes for the wines, but nonetheless, the friendly staff are happy to assist with beverages as well as the food department. All the maki rolls rock and the miso soup ($2) is better than average. I recommend the triple spicy platter ($16), the spicy Mexican roll ($6.50), the X-mas Roll ($7) and the Dynamite roll ($7). And the Sushi Regular, eight assorted rolls of the chef’s choice plus a California roll, is a bargain at $16. Earlier this year, Poke moved from their original miniscule space down East 85th Street to larger quarters. Although wait times have been slashed, the old place’s character, which felt like a taste of old Tokyo, has been swallowed up by the new yuppified digs. Thankfully, the food is still as good as ever.
Krik Krak is an intimate little Hatian bistro at the outskirts of Manhattan Valley, a mere four tables that’s perfect for a small party. The owners are also the wait staff and are unusually accommodating: One of them actually accepted my plea to try half an order of the yummy Griot, deep fried pork ($10), and half an order of Boulettes, delicate little meatballs ($10), although such a combo isn’t listed. The Akra De Malanga are piquant fried dumplings ($2.50) and the Bananes Frites, fried green plaintains, are subtly flavored little disks. A nice six-pack of a light beer goes well with the fried selections, but your favorite bottle of red is also a great accompaniment to the French-derived island food.
I also especially recommend the desserts. The Pain Patate, is a delicious, homey sweet potato pudding ($3.00). The prices are right, and the food is quite light, despite the fact that many of the dishes are fried. The menu items vary, rotating according to the day of the week.
I’ve never understood why A (yeah, that’s not a typo, the owners are hip-literati types), the cubbyhole on upper Columbus Avenue, has a perpetual line out the door. It must appeal to those politically correct Upper West Siders since the service is oh-so quirky and the vibe is like eating in someone’s Vermont home—kind of new agey, far from the big bad city. OK, it’s certainly cheap and with a good wine, you might not notice the mediocrity of the cuisine. The menu has barely changed since it opened: bland stuffed avocado ($9), a reasonably good roast duck leg confit (one leg, $13), and a crème brulée that’s all right but far from memorable ($6). Even though the food isn't wonderful, I’m continually dram back to the tables crammed into the tiny room, the ethereal glow of the lighting. Or maybe it’s the restaurant’s proximity to the Ding Dong Lounge.
Yura & Co. is renowned for their two bakeries on the Upper East Side, but the one on Third Avenue in the 90s also has a café where you can consume your own legal intoxicants. The décor reminds me of my grandmother’s kitchen: garish lights, depressingly dingy pastels and cheesy knickknacks, but the waiters—who seem to exist on another planet—are pleasant. Bring a potent thermos of Bloody Marys or mimosas, since the dining room is definitely best savored by the light of day, much livelier than the moribund evening shift (it closes at 8:45 p.m. during the week, 9:30 p.m. on the weekend). Breakfast is served until 4 p.m., and a good option (other than the excellent baked goods) are the French toast and waffles ($7.95 and $7.50). Dinner is reasonable and includes salad, sides, dessert and coffee or tea.
The chow is made of good wholesome ingredients, although it can be dull and over-cooked at times. A fruity chilled bottle of German Riesling on a recent visit, a friend and I brought which helped the eggplant parmesan ($17.95) and the poached salmon ($20.95) go down easy. The pan-roasted half-chicken is savory comfort food ($17.95), but the sweet & sour sauce on the meatloaf ($17.95) weighs in too far on the sweet side. For the teetotalers out there, the coffee and soda are “bottomless” cups/glasses. The sandwiches are appetizing, and you can wash them down with your own bottle of beer. Not a bad deal, if you ignore the lackluster surroundings.
And for those not in the know, thanks to New York State’s “take-out” law enacted in 2004, you may now bring home leftover wine if the bottle is sealed and placed in a clear bag; no longer any need to sneak the stuff under your coat and get stares due to your curious bulges. So, rummage through your wine cellar for your favorite bottle of Chateau Margaux or grab a six-pack at the deli and bring your own drinks to dinner for a change.
A, 947 Columbus Ave. (at 106th St.), 212-531-1643.
Krik Krak, 844 Amsterdam Ave.
(betw. 101st & 102nd Sts.), 212-222-3100.
Poke, 305 E. 85th St. (1st & 2nd Aves.), 212-249-0569.
Yura & Co., 1645 3rd Ave. (92nd St.), 212-860-8060.
