No matter how many cholesterol and trans fat factoids scientists throw out, people will never stop eating “bad” foods. That’s why Sparky’s is such a great find. The Williamsburg eatery makes guilty-pleasure dishes—minus the hormones and other unnatural food polluters—out of products from local farmers and bakers. It’s a fact that leaves you feeling like you’re supporting the “little guys” while eating macaroni and cheese ($3) at their no-frills wooden tables. But if appealing to your health and civic conscience means nothing to you, then just enjoy the grub.
Sparky’s boils its hot dogs, which means less grease and more flavor, and these suckers actually taste like beef and have a nice snap when bitten. The chile-pickle relish and spicy catsup dog ($3) have a great kick, and the hand-cut cheddar fries ($3.50) are salted and cheesed to perfection. The grilled cheese ($3.50) is a little greasy, but the white cheddar cheese gives it an gourmet bite. The star of the meal was the milkshake ($4): it wasn’t so thick that you couldn’t get it up the straw, but also (thankfully) not too runny—the perfect consistency. The vanilla shake balanced out the spice of the dog, and for those feeling a bit above the “Neapolitan” selection of flavors, go for the blueberry or ginger. Sparky’s does comfort food the way more places should: in a natural way that makes the food better for you without replacing the hamburgers ($5.25) and BLTs ($4) with sprouts and tofu.
135 N. 5th St. (betw. Bedford Ave. & Berry St.), 718-302-5151.

