By Tony Dokoupil

If restaurants were reviewed like football teams, Xing would be a team to watch in 2006. Sports journalists would write it up something like this:

Since entering the League last year, Xing (pronounced Shing and meaning “star”) has been impressive in the Hell’s Kitchen division, outplaying competitors with a mix of adventurous cocktails and bamboo-lined ambience. Their interior space is effective without being too aggressive. A classic rectangle, it narrows from a dark, mahogany open space full of people up in the front to a cozy, mellow area in the rear dining room. An exotic fish tank marks the transition, and red velvet walls in the back absorb wayward revelers from the appetizers-only crowd at the bar.   

Uncertainty at the chef position is all that has prevented Xing from playing to its potential in the past. Josh Eden, former food-caller at haute-Chinese hot spot 66, took the menu in season one, only to produce a lackluster array of conventional dishes such as Szechuan hangar steak and General Tso’s chicken. (Think Chinatown take-out meets Midtown hip.) But the off-season acquisition of Lulzim Rexhepi should help things considerably. 

The young chef, notable for hands sized like a bunch of bananas, has completely overhauled the menu to reflect contemporary Asian tastes. Yes, this results in a certain amount of “Americanization,” but nothing off balance. The Chinese BBQ ribs, served as an appetizer in small succulent batches, and ladled over with a peppery sauce, are clearly of two worlds. Crispy asparagus avocado rolls with pomegranate sauce are the pure Japanese appetizer option. And no matter what one orders the presentation is small and orderly. Nothing could be more un-American. 

Fortunately, for the average stars-and-stripes New Yorker the new menu is also affordable and deep enough to satisfy. Four and five course meals are encouraged, and a rotating option called “Chef’s Tasting” makes navigation easy. A flat $55 buys both of the above appetizers, a seared tuna with lime or broiled cod entrée, a cilantro crusted side of lamb, and, for desert, five cinnamon and sugar mini donuts made onsite. For a mystical fifth course, grab the Electric Karma cocktail: vodka, ginger and pineapple juice slurped from a ceramic Buddha mug. 

The only downside to Xing is it closes by
1 a.m. and leaves diners geographically handicapped by the soulless Hell’s Kitchen bar scene. But that’s a whole ’nother ballgame. Pound-for-pound, point for-point, and whatever other sports metaphors besides, Xing matches up with anyone. Bet on them. 

Xing Restaurant
785 9th Avenue (betw. 52nd and 53rd Sts.)
646-289-3010