Smith Street has seen a retail and dining “resurgence” in recent years. Where once music stores and bike shops reigned supreme, now one spies overpriced boutiques alongside dining establishments that offer foie gras and paté. While most of these establishments offer nothing of worth to the local community, the same cannot be said for Porchetta.

A contemporary Italian restaurant on the corner of Smith and Douglass in Brooklyn, Porchetta brings the popular cuisine of the Mediterranean nation to life in a modern, comfortable setting. Hardwood floors abound. A wooden moose (no unjust animal cruelty here) looks down from one B&W muraled wall; another wall is enveloped in lace-like paper. It’s funky without being pretentious.

The staff is obsequious without being toady. Drink orders are taken almost immediately, so feel free to start with the Pera, prosecco mixed with pear puree. An alternative to the more traditional bellini, the dry sparkling wine works perfectly with the light fruit juice. Another distinctive drink is the Maile Margarita—which features tequila, Cointreau, tangerine juice, chili pepper and, instead of salt on the rim, pork cracklings. It’s a robust drink and may take the casual margarita drinker by surprise.

The antipasti list is extensive but offers a wide variety to suit every taste. I particularly enjoyed the Smoked Sunchoke Soup with sheep’s milk ricotta ($11). The broth is poured onto the golden raisin, fried sage and cheese mixture as you watch and, somehow, the odd flavors actually complement one another. I just can’t get enough of it.

Porchetta is a pasta-lovers destination. Like the antipasti list, the primi list is not huge but is still varied. I opt for the gnocchi ($13) with crushed black truffles and fresh Parmesan cheese, asking the waitstaff to withhold the guanciale, unsmoked Italian bacon. The creamy sauce, with just a touch of lemon zest and black pepper, encapsulates every piece of the potato-like pasta. The gnocchi is made perfectly: not too chewy yet firm enough to not get mistaken for the sauce. My friend was won over by the orecchiette ($11) with sopressata and gorgonzola. The sopressata is rolled up on top of the ear-shaped pasta, which is served al dente. The sauce strikes the right balance of creaminess without being too garlicky or overwhelming.

It’s difficult to choose from the selection of main courses but best bets are the braised short ribs ($20) with mustard green fondue and black olives and the wild striped sea bass ($21) with pine nut broth. Ribs should be almost buttery and the ones at Porchetta don’t disappoint. The saltiness of the gorgonzola cheese, which is placed on top of the ribs, adds just the right pungent flavor balance to the ribs and fondue.

The wild striped sea bass is another prime choice. While the pine nut broth is a little too soupy, the sea bass is cooked to perfection—firm on the outside, yet tender and flaky on the inside—with just the right amount of salt and pepper for seasoning. While we may have enjoyed the pasta dishes more, the main courses are consumed with gusto.

Desserts include saffron panna cotta ($6) and a hot chocolate torte ($6), both of which are good but not particularly extraordinary. For those craving something different, try the olive oil cake with pistachios and honey lavender gelato ($7). Chef Jason Neroni uses olive oil in place of butter to create a dessert that may seem a little odd at first but really does take the proverbial cake. It never seems heavy or greasy, and the lavender gelato is flavorful without being too flowery. You’ll want to take a pint home. Owner Marco Rivera has a sure-fire hit on his hands. Grazie mille, Marco.

Porchetta

241 Smith St. (at Douglass St.), B’klyn

718-237-9100