When I think of my grandmother, I remember being fed delicious Afghan food that she cooked for our large family. Her bareh (lamb kabobs) were to die for, and I have eaten a trail through NYC’s Afghan eateries, searching for something that seemed as elusive as the Holy Grail. But I think I may have found one that comes very close.

Bamiyan, an Afghan restaurant named after the Buddhist region in the central Asian nation, makes a mean lamb kabob ($17.95), complete with basmati rice. The lamb is minced in spices and skewered perfectly. It’s the reason I first visited the restaurant, but it’s not the only reason I keep returning. Bamiyan offers an amazing array of Persian and Afghan dishes that are sure to tantalize. From savory appetizers such as kadu (pumpkin turnovers, $4.25) and aushak (scallion dumplings, $5.95) to shireen palow ($14.95), a rice and Cornish hen dish with fragrant orange peels and saffron, the restaurant lures diners in and keeps them there with unique dishes and good service. Chef/Owner Sayed Shah trained under his mother and sisters in Afghanistan and takes special care to make sure all of his creations have his special, tender touch. Sit in one of the four traditional tables in front and recline on tribal cushions as you dine Indian-style like we did in my grandmother’s home.

358 3rd Ave. (at 26th St.), 212-481-3232.