Toby’s Public House
686 6th Ave.
(at 21st St.), Brooklyn
718-788-1186
Each time a pizza place opens people ask, “Do we really need more pie makers?” And each time we wonder what the new gimmick is gonna be (ultra-traditional-state-of-the-art wood-burning oven?) and, even if it’s good, will it really measure up to beloved classics like Di Fara’s, Lombardi’s or John’s? But that doesn’t seem to keep folks from trying. And now Sunset Park recently entered the competitive fray with a new brick-oven joint, Toby’s Public House.
Where The Hell Is Sunset Park?: Once you figure that out—it’s the Prospect Avenue stop on the M/R in Brooklyn—just know that unless you live in the area, you and your MetroCard will get a workout. When you get off the train, there’s a scenic walk through a desolate, industrial stretch, the only sign of life being a lush cemetery. But as you round the corner onto more residential 6th Avenue, savory salvation is ahead.
Start Your Ovens: Anyone who slavishly supported Di Fara’s last year—even during their health code violation imbroglio—will understand why I’m not easily impressed by upstarts. Since the pies at Toby’s are on the small side, my friend Joe and I thought we should share and try a couple. The first out of the oven was the Napoletana ($15), which featured anchovies, black olives and capers. The ingredients were heaven. Unfortunately, the angels were stingy with the toppings, with most concentrated around the center. Joe, a former pizza artisan, also thought the overly thin crust resulted in it being burnt around the edges. The beers, though, were a good complement to the saltiness, and we liked the sauce, which was not overly sweet.
Round Two Smackdown: Joe was still hungry, so a second pie was definitely needed. Round two was the Primavera ($14), and there was no comparison. The liberally scattered fresh toppings included black olives, artichokes, arugula, red onions and mozzarella. It looked and smelled fantastic, and it tasted even more amazing. (This is from a person who normally would sooner starve than eat artichokes.) There was a subtle but discernible balance between the featured flavors, and because the pie didn’t suffer any charring, the tanginess of the tomato sauce really popped.
Something Sweet: There are just a handful of desserts, but the contrasting creaminess of the generous bowl of chocolate gelato ($6) hit the spot.
All in the Nabe: The coziness and simplicity of the space create an immediate neighborhood feeling, with a diverse crowd that ranges from infants to the senior set. It’s small but not cramped, with a brick wall interior and windows that open onto the quiet street to bring in a balmy breeze on warm nights. The friendly staff will accommodate you if you want to sample from different beers like Toby’s Cheap ($3/pint) or the Coney Island Lager ($5) before making your pick. Forego a table and linger at the bar for happy hour from 10 p.m.-midnight to watch one of three flat-screen televisions and chat up the Iggy Pop look-alike bartender.
686 6th Ave.
(at 21st St.), Brooklyn
718-788-1186
Each time a pizza place opens people ask, “Do we really need more pie makers?” And each time we wonder what the new gimmick is gonna be (ultra-traditional-state-of-the-art wood-burning oven?) and, even if it’s good, will it really measure up to beloved classics like Di Fara’s, Lombardi’s or John’s? But that doesn’t seem to keep folks from trying. And now Sunset Park recently entered the competitive fray with a new brick-oven joint, Toby’s Public House.
Where The Hell Is Sunset Park?: Once you figure that out—it’s the Prospect Avenue stop on the M/R in Brooklyn—just know that unless you live in the area, you and your MetroCard will get a workout. When you get off the train, there’s a scenic walk through a desolate, industrial stretch, the only sign of life being a lush cemetery. But as you round the corner onto more residential 6th Avenue, savory salvation is ahead.
Start Your Ovens: Anyone who slavishly supported Di Fara’s last year—even during their health code violation imbroglio—will understand why I’m not easily impressed by upstarts. Since the pies at Toby’s are on the small side, my friend Joe and I thought we should share and try a couple. The first out of the oven was the Napoletana ($15), which featured anchovies, black olives and capers. The ingredients were heaven. Unfortunately, the angels were stingy with the toppings, with most concentrated around the center. Joe, a former pizza artisan, also thought the overly thin crust resulted in it being burnt around the edges. The beers, though, were a good complement to the saltiness, and we liked the sauce, which was not overly sweet.
Round Two Smackdown: Joe was still hungry, so a second pie was definitely needed. Round two was the Primavera ($14), and there was no comparison. The liberally scattered fresh toppings included black olives, artichokes, arugula, red onions and mozzarella. It looked and smelled fantastic, and it tasted even more amazing. (This is from a person who normally would sooner starve than eat artichokes.) There was a subtle but discernible balance between the featured flavors, and because the pie didn’t suffer any charring, the tanginess of the tomato sauce really popped.
Something Sweet: There are just a handful of desserts, but the contrasting creaminess of the generous bowl of chocolate gelato ($6) hit the spot.
All in the Nabe: The coziness and simplicity of the space create an immediate neighborhood feeling, with a diverse crowd that ranges from infants to the senior set. It’s small but not cramped, with a brick wall interior and windows that open onto the quiet street to bring in a balmy breeze on warm nights. The friendly staff will accommodate you if you want to sample from different beers like Toby’s Cheap ($3/pint) or the Coney Island Lager ($5) before making your pick. Forego a table and linger at the bar for happy hour from 10 p.m.-midnight to watch one of three flat-screen televisions and chat up the Iggy Pop look-alike bartender.
