Walking into Momofuku Ssäm Bar, David Chang’s long-blogged-about Asian burrito joint, was, as I’d read and expected, like being in a much cooler Chipotle. The new venture from the brains behind Momofuku Noodle Bar feels and sounds like its forebear: from the sleek, all-wood interior to the classic rock blaring on the speakers. But the food behind the counter is similar to what you’d expect on a taqueria assembly line—minus the familiar ingredients. At first glance, the only things I recognized were the mains: Berkshire Pork, Bell and Evans Chicken and Shiitake Mushrooms. So, perplexed by what was in store and afraid of holding up the line, I reverted to learned, Chipotle behavior and ordered the equivalent of a pork burrito bowl. The Bibb Lettuce, Rice Bowl, Onions, Ssäm Sauce ($13) dish is one of three items on Ssäm’s fast food menu, which is rounded out by Chang’s Korean wrap, or “ssäm,” and steamed chicken or pork buns. 

The rice bowl is essentially a deconstructed ssäm, and to prepare it, a line cook layers a plastic bowl with sticky rice, shredded pork, slab-bacon seasoned black beans, roasted kernels of corn and translucent slices of sautéed onions. Then he slid the bowl down the line, and into foreign topping territory. 

At this point, I had to ask the server for the name of that mahogany sauce he ladled onto my bowl (hoisin—duh). The spicy, sesame-studded cole slaw he piled on next is called “Kewpie slaw” because its main ingredient is Kewpie-brand mayo from Japan, and the tomato-red relish that followed, is actually pureed kimchi, the pickled cabbage that Chang has adulterated with salty krill. The rice bowl also comes with “Ssäm Sauce,” a mixture of fermented bean and chili pepper paste, and, if you ask nicely, a spoon of sour cream-like whipped tofu. 

A few bean sprouts sprinkled on top, a side of bibb lettuce, and a Korean, OB beer later, and I was all set to experience the ssäm “unwrapped,” which by now looked like a Jackson Pollock painting. After one leaf-full of meat, I was hooked. The shredded Berkshire Pork was melt-in-your-mouth tender, and the spicy-sweet mix of condiments reminded me of a Korean bi bim bop, minus the egg and beef. 

The next night I visited, I tried the signature ssäm ($9), a flour-wrapped Korean “burrito” served, until recently, at Noodle Bar. This time I opted for the grilled chicken, which comes with a vegetarian, white kimchi puree and bright green edamame in place of the smoky black beans. (Unlike Chipotle, the kitchen staff makes the call on condiments, not you.)

But the lack of seasoning showed, and the burrito screamed for a shot of Sriricha, the garlicky chili sauce with the rooster on its bottle. Chang is still tinkering with the chicken recipe and has just begun marinating it overnight, but it’s hard to believe it will ever beat the succulent braised pork, particularly on the steamed buns (two for $8), where it’s topped with hoisin and pickled cucumbers like a BBQ pulled pork sandwich by way of Hong Kong.

The buns are another riff on Noodle Bar, and the similarities are set to continue this fall, when Ssäm will start serving a late-night, hodgepodge menu of everything from charcuterie to shellfish to “whatever we feel like cooking,” that night Chang says. The 10 p.m. till 2 a.m. quick change will be a swank, sake-infused departure from his gourmet fast-food joint, but the guiding principle for both sides of Ssäm, says Chang, is that “the food has to be tasty every day.” He’s making good on the promise already.

Momofuku Ssäm Bar 

207 Second Ave. (at 13th St.)

212-254-3500