This hole-in-the-wall Hell’s Kitchen joint has been around for a couple of years and continues to coast on its rep as the best place to snag a cheesesteak without taking Amtrak. The petite round tables and matching tomato-red stools do a little to dress up the somewhat dreary spot, but it’s the bread and meat we’re craving, not décor. The third rule on Philly Slim’s list of the “Three Golden Rules” is  “eat my meat,” and that should help narrow down the choices. The place offers a choice between the “classic” Cheez Whiz as well as American and Provolone. A simple meat and cheese combo ($6.50) showed up in less than five minutes, sizzling with thin steak slices and oozing with cheese between a slightly toasted hoagie along with a side of crispy waffle fries ($2.50). But with my first eager bite, my hope for a superb Philadelphia two-hander was crushed by tasteless, greasy meat and insufficient cheese. Each bite brought more lackluster bread, grease and little satisfaction. The waffle fries—the highlight of the meal—were little more than average fried potatoes. The “Loaded” is a better choice ($7.50) since it comes packed with mushrooms and peppers to add more flavor to the mess. For dessert, chocolate cupcakes and butterscotch krimpets are offered, but they both seemed abnormally expensive at $1.25. While the folks at Philly Slim’s have an enthusiasm for Brotherly Love, it may be worth that trip for the real thing after all.

789 9th Ave. (betw. 52nd & 53rd Sts.),
212-333-3042.