I’d been eyeing Chavella’s for months. If its medal hatch was open, and I caught a glimpse of the bright paint and tiny kitchen, my heart would swell with promise. I was afraid to get my hopes up. A Mexican joint two blocks from my apartment? On Classon Avenue???
Despite my complex feelings about it, I live gentrification. I call home an undefined territory between Prospect Heights and Crown Heights, Brooklyn. PH is quickly yuppifying and spreading its borders east. With pretty brownstones, people who’ve been priced out of nearby Park Slope are happy to grab up a slice before rents are raised. Closest to my home, CH is largely black and Caribbean communities. The region in between is comprised of Washington, Classon and
Franklin Avenues, which is seeing an influx of college-educated twentysomethings. The formula has been demonstrated in countless NYC neighborhoods: first come the artists and young people, then come the restaurants.
On Jan. 12, a culinary revolution began. Quiet Classon Avenue, which until now only had bulletproofed bodegas and schools, got its first dining establishment. That alone is cause for celebration. Imagine my glee to discover not only that an eatery was opening, but that it was also inexpensive and really, really good.
I knew at the first bite of my chorizo taco ($2.50) I had another reason to renew my lease. The authentic preparation served with lime wedges had the perfect mixture of Mexican sausage spiciness with savory potato. The chipotle chicken taco ($2.50) was equally delightful.
For appetizers, we liked the tostada ($3.75), served with veggies and Mexican cheese. On my first visit, I enjoyed my tamale ($2.50), a cornhusk baked with polenta and chicken, but I thought it was a little too dry. The second time, it had improved significantly: moist with a subtle hint of salsa verde. We also tried the guacamole with tortillas ($6.50) and, although the price seemed comparatively steep, it was so fresh we didn’t care.
On my second dinner, chef/owner Arturo Leonar recommended Aurelia’s Chicken Mole ($10.50) and enchiladas rojas ($9.50). I foisted the ordering of the mole onto my friend Lauren; I’d been disappointed by bitter mole so many times, I’d started to think I didn’t like it at all. But after one bite, I became a convert. The flavor gave me a whole new take on the dish, and I can’t remember a time where I tasted chicken so meltingly tender. My enchiladas didn’t disappoint either. Served with rice and beans, Leonar also nailed this entrée. As we were leaving, I spied other customers chowing down on bountiful tortas ($6.50-$7), Mexican sandwiches, and made a note-to-self: come back immediately to try one.
The charming waitress/owner Desiree DeToy maintains this 20-seat operation. Since they’re waiting for their liquor license, she offered to go next door to a bodega to get us $1.50 Coronas. She explained that their idea to open Chavella’s was born out of necessity: “We live around here, and there’s no place to eat. We had to drive our car to Park Slope.”
She’s right. The choices in our stomping grounds are mainly sub-par Chinese restaurants and takeout West Indian food on Washington and Franklin. But DeToy and Leonar have hit on something bigger. There aren’t any Mexican cafés in Prospect or West Crown Heights, and the couple’s skills should quickly earn them a reputation beyond the immediate area. If Park Slopers and other Brooklynites know what’s good for them, they’ll walk, ride or drive their cars to Chavella’s.
With delivery and Sunday Brunch on the way, Chavella’s is a neighborhood change agent. And change never tasted so good.
Chavella’s Mexican Café
732 Classon Ave. (betw. Park & Prospect) B’klyn,
718-622-3100.
