Recently, while my roommate was in the security line at JFK, she caught a woman eyeing the bag of breadsticks she had with her to snack on during the flight. “Excuse me, are those from Risotteria?” the woman inquired. “I can recognize that smell anywhere.”
It's not that Risotteria has the best breadsticks in NYC, or even that they have a particularly delicious scent, it’s simply that the small West Village restaurant has made a big impact with its 37-plus different varieties of risotto. Like many of Risotteria’s loyal (and borderline obsessed) customers, my roommate has celiac disease. Celiacs are unable to process wheat and therefore cannot eat bread, cake, crackers, soy sauce or even beer. Life without wheat can be grim— and full of substitutes. However, Risotteria offers a solution: Almost all of the food served there can be ordered without gluten.
It turned out that the breadstick admirer also had celiac disease, as do an estimated one in every 133 people. Since even a tiny amount of flour can damage a celiac’s intestines, eating out is risky. Taking a busy waitress’ word that a dish is made without flour or wheat is often an unreliable option. Some restaurants have separate gluten-free menus, but there are few that offer the variety and quality of Risotteria.
Several weeks ago, to the surprise of many Risotteria patrons, the spot became one of the 94 food establishments shut down by the NYC Department of Health and Mental Hygiene in the wake of the KFC/Taco Bell rat hysteria. It was hard to get a straight story from the staff, but Risotteria was closed for two weeks due to prior violations; a sign declared that the closing was nothing more than a “witch-hunt.” According to the inspection report from March 1, the restaurant scored 31 points (failing is upwards of 28 points) for evidence of flying insects and mice, among other unappetizing violations. However, they’ve since cleaned up their act in more ways than one. The March report lists no violations, and the eatery has happily reopened. The tables and seats are even looking a little more polished. A line snaked out into the rain on a recent Thursday night. Indeed, there was no sign that customers were turned off by the health department report.
Offering gluten-free risotto is not much of a challenge since rice doesn’t naturally contain gluten. But making pizza, panini, breadsticks and cookies without using wheat is a far more complicated process. My one-time experiment making gluten-free bread ended in a lump that tasted very unlike bread. But the gluten-free gurus at Risotteria have the chemistry down, and their creations taste almost as good as the gluten-laden alternatives. One of the great things about Risotteria for celiacs—and the rest of us alike—is the option to order food made with gluten as well as without.
Risotteria serves gluten-free breadsticks to start, which are chewy and salty and taste pretty good considering the ingredient restrictions. The wine and beer list (including, of course, non-gluten beer) is reasonably priced. The salads are fresh and full of interesting toppings like Parma ham, roasted beats and shiitake mushrooms.
The pizzas are thin and crisp and offered in three varieties: tomato sauce, olive puree and pesto sauce. Each kind can also be made with an herbed rice flour crust for the gluten-intolerant. The roasted Portobello tomato sauce pizza with truffle oil ($11) hits the spot, as does the Parma ham, mozzarella and oven-dried tomato with pesto sauce ($12.50). My roommate loves the gluten-free mozzarella, zucchini and dried tomato pesto sauce pie ($12.25). The panini are grilled until the focaccia bread (either with gluten or without) is crisp and the cheese is gooey. Basic mozzarella and pesto ($8.50) is simple and delicious. Risotteria also offers vegan-friendly pizza, panini and risotto.
You can’t really go wrong with the risotto. The classic Arborio with parmesan ($8.50) is perfect on its own and only gets better with the addition of chicken, pork shoulder, leg of lamb, calamari or shrimp. Usually I end up taking a bit home (and it re-heats surprisingly well).
When it comes to dessert, Risotteria is fine for those who can’t eat gluten, but everyone else should stick to traditional cookies ($2.25 each). The “fudgie” ($6), chocolate fudge sandwiched between two chocolate chip cookies, is overkill and too dense. The cheesecake and carrot cake pass, but don’t quite measure up.
The restaurant can be crowded and a bit cramped at times, so carry out or delivery is sometimes a good option. And schlepping your carryout (plus breadsticks) to the airport beats those processed in-flight snack boxes every time.
Risotteria
270 Bleecker St. (at Morton St.), 212-924-6664
