An unassuming restaurant at the corner of the Bowery and Bayard Street, Great NY Noodletown isn’t posh, popular, flashy or shiny. The glass tabletops are left unadorned with menus pressed underneath, and clientele ranges from immigrant workmen to dinner dates to families getting a weekend meal. Speaking of which, seating is family-style, so be prepared to share a table. People, servers and customers alike are talkative and friendly; you may even learn some Chinese before your meal is through. A real pearl in the sea of restaurants that is Chinatown, this Cantonese style eatery will never leave you hungry. The expansive 50-plus item menu can be divided into soups, congee (porridge), rice plates, pan-fried or lo mein noodles and a roster of specially prepared dishes including a range of seafood, poultry, beef and Chinese barbeque. Prices are reasonable, with nothing exceeding $20.
Naturally, my friend and I started with soup, the shrimp dumpling ($3.75) and the wonton with roast pork ($3.50). Both are divinely fresh inspirations. The shrimp and shiitake mushroom dumplings are firm and flavorful, and the roasted pork is salty and crunchy, but still tender amongst long egg noodles in a soupy broth. These are but two of 15-plus different soup options, others of which include duck, beef or vegetarian ($3-3.95).
After we decided our next course had to be on the barbeque front, plates arrived quickly. First, succulent baby pig ($10.95), then a crisp, flavorful roasted duck ($13.95) and, finally, the perfectly tender and moist Soy Sauce Chicken ($4.50) accompanied with ginger, green onion and garlic sauce. We chose the Sautéed Baby Bok Choy ($7.95) to complement the meaty goodness. Other notable veggie options are the stewed eggplant on rice ($5.25) and the mixed Chinese vegetables with wide noodles ($7.25).
The jewel in this restaurant’s crown is the salt-baked seafood portion of the menu. The Asian preparation is unlike any other. Choose from shrimp, scallops, squid, flounder or soft shelled crab (which I highly recommend). The seafood is crusted in a super salty batter and baked, before arriving on a bed of fresh lettuce and green chiles. The texture is similar to something breaded and fried, but lighter and crispier, not soggy at all.
Once you’ve made a couple of visits to this Chinatown mecca and have decided you’re ready for the next level, look no further than the Lobster with Egg Foo Noodles—it’s total nirvana. Succulent, juicy, pre-cracked and easy to eat, this specialty dish is well worth a fifth course at $18.95. Or try the Shrimp in a Taro Bird’s Nest ($14.95), Shrimp with Walnuts ($13.95), Fresh Asparagus with Shredded Roast Duck ($10.95) or the X.O. Special Sauce with Shrimp ($12.95).
Great NY Noodletown is fairly traditional as far as cuisine goes, but the fresh ingredients, endless menu and relaxed atmosphere set it apart from all the Chinatown joints that offer up familiar dishes and at prices that won’t break the bank.
Great NY Noodletown
28 Bowery (at Bayard St.)
212-349-0923
