Sweet Spots

The hipster dream of living in the Village, listening to obscure music and writing-nobody-under-

stands-me poetry in coffee shops fades as Starbucks replaces indie java houses and studio rents continue to skyrocket. Although most have already moved to Brooklyn (or Queens), few have ventured to what I think is Manhattan’s best neighborhood, Sugar Hill. Located roughly between 145th to 160th streets and between Edgecombe and Amsterdam avenues in Harlem, it’s the area of town where African Americans like Lena Horn, Paul Robeson and Duke Ellington lived the “sweet life.” But it’s not so much a geographical location as it is a way of living. Culture, art, and music are what define Sugar Hill.

I was 19 and had been in the city less than a year when I told my family I was moving to Harlem. You might have thought I said Fallujah; they reacted like I was completely crazy. I found an apartment on 149th Street and Convent Avenue and instantly fell for the neighborhood: The people were friendly, groceries were reasonable and fruit vendors sold pineapple and mango on a stick. I couldn’t imagine anything better. But I continue to discover more and more reasons to call northern Manhattan home.

Kurt Thometz’s brownstone basement houses this Jumel Terrace Books, dedicated to African and African-American lit. Thometz moved onto 160th Street three years ago with his wife and 16-year-old son and opened the bookstore a year after that. He claims he had the idea when he was thinking about all the history on the block: Joe Louis had once lived a few doors down and George Washington stayed at the Jumel Mansion when he fought the Battle of Harlem Heights. The independent bookshop is a dying species, but Thometz has been at it since the 1970s, and he wanted to help create a cultural climate for the neighborhood. It’s a place where people can now gather and learn about the neighborhood in which they live.

The little nook contains about 3,000 books for sale with prices ranging from $3-$2,000. Although, it’s pretty exciting to see a signed edition of a Langston Hughes book, he also has a free table where anyone can simply take a book.

Thometz has managed to revive an intellectual, Downtown attitude and transplant it way Uptown. As other independent bookstores disappear, one can only hope that certain parts of Sugar Hill stay sweet.

Jumel Terrace Books, 426 W. 160th St. (betw. St. Nick & Edgecombe Aves.), 212-928-9525; Fri.-Sun. 11-6.

A Starbucks has recently opened on 145th Street, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t some other local faves to feed your java juice addiction. Here are a few that shouldn’t be missed.

741 St Nicholas Ave. (at W. 147th St.), 212-690-8080.

344 W. 145th St. (betw. St. Nick & Edgecombe Aves.), 212-281-3010.

11 Edward M. Morgan Pl. (at 157th & Broadway), 646-789-7177; 537 Edgecombe Ave. (at 159th St.), 917-806-1664.

The Riverbank State Park surprises everyone who happens upon it the first time. Think of Central Park only less crowded and perched on the edge of the Hudson River. The park was built in 1992 atop a sewage plant (nope, it doesn’t  smell) and covers 28 acres. It’s equipped with an amphitheater, Olympic-size pool, ice/skating rink and a full size track and field. The picnic area overlooks the Hudson and has trees for shade.

The park also has classes and programs, such as ballet and hockey as well as a Summertime Concert Series (beginning July 14) and the Jammin’ on the Hudson Concert Series (July 22) that features jazz musicians Curtis Fuller and Carol

Sloane.

679 Riverside Dr., (at 145th St. ), 212-694-3600; 6 am-11pm.

The owners of Raw Soul, Eddie Robinson and his wife Lillian Butler, opened their restaurant three years ago to prepare fresh fixings with no dairy or refined sugar. The couple even brew their own ginger beer—try it. In October, they plan to open Harlem’s first food co-op and are currently recruiting members.

48 W. 145th St. (betw. St. Nicholas & Edgecombe Aves.), 212-491-5859.

It’s dark, small, dingy, decorated with Christmas tree lights and you’ll never see anyone drinking a Cosmo. In short, it’s the best bar in the city. St Nick’s Pub has had many names through the years, but has carried the same history through it all. Back in the 1930s and ’40s, the Pub hosted such musicians as Marlowe Morris and Joe Jordan. Now, it’s still a great place to hear some of the best jazz around. Every night, excluding Tuesdays, starting at around 10 and going to the wee hours of the morning, pop in (without ever paying a cover) and be transported to a time when Harlem was the stomping ground for the greats.

Purchase soul food from Donald, who sits in the back with plastic containers full of chicken, green beans and potatoes. He’ll even stick it in the microwave for you and warm it up. And while you’re there, order a Sugar Hill beer from Neville. It’s quite nice.

773 St. Nicholas Ave. (at 149th St.), 212-283-9728.

While You’re in the Neighborhood…

Here are a few more places to check out while you’re standing around with your teeth in your mouth:

Specializing in African and African-American artifacts.

430 W. 162nd St. (betw. St. Nicholas & Edgecombe Aves.). 212-740-8888.

Manhattan’s oldest residence served as headquarters for George Washington in the Battle of Harlem Heights—later owned by Eliza Jumel, who was once the wealthiest woman in NYC. It’s been rumored she now haunts the place.

65 Jumel Terrace, (at 160th St), www.morrisjumel.org.

Specializing in African-American literature, also has a café, computers and free Wi-Fi.

1942 Amsterdam Ave. (at 156th St.), 212-862-3680.

Specializes in the work of black artists who were influenced by Romare Bearden.

419A Convent Ave., (betw. 147th & 149th), 212-368-9635.

At a residence nicknamed “The Triple Nickle,” Marjorie Elliot hosts live jazz in her parlor for free for the public. If that isn’t hospitality I don’t know what is.

555 Edgecombe Ave., Apt. 3F, (at 160th St.), 212-781-6595; every Sun. 4-6:30.