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El Paso Taqueria

Wednesday, August 8,2007
Step off the 6 train at East 103rd Street, walk uptown one block and you’ll find yourself at El Paso Taqueria. Here, one of Manhattan’s best Mexican restaurants also happens to be one of the cheapest.

Given its name, tacos are the main event. Try the taco al pastor ($2.50), filled with a generous portion of deliciously charred pork, guacamole and chopped onion. The huarache—a homemade corn tortilla stuffed with black beans and topped with sour cream and cotija cheese—is greaseless and delectable, enough for a light meal, and a deal at $3.75. The cheese enchiladas ($8.95), which come with a choice of red guajillo or green tomatillo sauce, are flavorful and served with tasty red beans and rice.

Beyond tacos, El Paso is famous for its guacamole ($7.25), which was a heartbreakingly bland addition to my most recent meal. Maybe someone was having a bad night in the kitchen, because on nearly all of my (many, many) past visits, their avocado treat was the perfect tongue-tingling combination of spicy, salty and tart. Overall, stick to the small dishes here—the tacos are clearly a must—and you’ll leave satisfyingly stuffed as a burrito. (Cara O’Flynn)

1642 Lexington Ave. (at 103rd St.), 212-831-9831; also at 64 E. 97th St. & 237 E. 116th St.
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