Mexican, Chinese. Italian, pizza especially. Hamburgers, whether those get attributed to Germans or Americans. Sushi, of late.
These are the types of cuisines which have become popular around the world, far beyond the borders of the countries where they were born.
Then there is Peruvian food, which, outside of Peru, is available almost nowhere.
The list of places where the cuisine can be found got a little shorter last year, when Lima’s Taste closed one of its Alphabet City location. Thankfully, the homier branch remains, nestled on Christopher Street just short of Bedford, its crowded dining room of thick wooden tables raised slightly from the sidewalk at the top of three stairs.
And those who have not been eating there regularly are, for lack of a better word, idiots. The menu at Lima’s Taste provides an amazing mix of dishes which feel familiar and completely unknown. Cilantro, marinated raw onions and lime juice appear throughout, but in each item they do something different, unexpected and unquestionably wonderful.
Take the dish of roasted peanuts that is left on the table for snacking. Sure, you’ve had peanuts before, and some of them have probably been roasted. But you have not had anything quite like these, which are dry and crunchy, a little spicy and deeply flavorful.
And that is just what they give you for free.
A whole section of the menu is devoted to ceviches, in case people might be foolish enough to eat here without having at least one. Go with the basic Ceviche Pescado ($14), flounder “cooked” to its maximum chewy potential. The time it takes to work the final product through your teeth will provide just enough time to taste the fresh lime and lemon juices, accentuated by the mild blend of salt and cilantro. There are more complex items in this section for those already initiated in the wonders of Peruvian ceviche, featuring different fish, sauces, spices and creams. But start with the basics.
The Papa Rellena ($9) is a must-eat, one people should come from miles around just to look at, to smell—and if they are truly lucky, to taste. Essentially a ball of mashed potatoes stuffed with beef, olives and raisins and then dropped into the fryer, the Papa Rellena is an amazement—a gift from the kitchen unto the world. Dressed with the marinated fresh onions and cilantro which come atop most appetizers, the Papa Rellena becomes a masterpiece, savory and sweet, crunchy and smooth, pointedly spicy and soft on the palate like the most glorious comfort food. Have as many as you can, provided you leave room for the other amazing dishes. If you think much time will pass before you return to Lima’s Taste again, order some to go, stuff your pockets with them if you must.
Settle in for the Aji de Pollo ($15) as your main course, and let the creamy yellow pepper sauce wash over your tongue, your whole mouth, your entire being. Like a cup of hot chocolate on a cold winter day, the Aji de Pollo will warm you to your core. Even those stuffed to the gills with Papa Rellenas will gobble every last piece of meat and sauce off this plate. There is nothing “third world” about a country which can create dishes like this.
The Escaveche ($16) is also done very well, with the chicken cooked to a deep brown in vinegar and a mélange of vegetables like the precisely-cooked sweet onions which both bring out the flavor and stand on their own.
Now, sure, the service is a little slow and not really service in the traditional sense: four requests for a refilled glass of water resulted in half a glass being poured before the waiter wandered away again. This is partially made up for by the enthusiasm with which they take the orders, suggesting good items, pointing out which beers are the best to pair with each dish (hint: the Cristal is usually the best). This should not be a major concern. The menu is the real reason to go to most restaurants, and on that front, Lima’s Taste excels. Go there. Now.
These are the types of cuisines which have become popular around the world, far beyond the borders of the countries where they were born.
Then there is Peruvian food, which, outside of Peru, is available almost nowhere.
The list of places where the cuisine can be found got a little shorter last year, when Lima’s Taste closed one of its Alphabet City location. Thankfully, the homier branch remains, nestled on Christopher Street just short of Bedford, its crowded dining room of thick wooden tables raised slightly from the sidewalk at the top of three stairs.
And those who have not been eating there regularly are, for lack of a better word, idiots. The menu at Lima’s Taste provides an amazing mix of dishes which feel familiar and completely unknown. Cilantro, marinated raw onions and lime juice appear throughout, but in each item they do something different, unexpected and unquestionably wonderful.
Take the dish of roasted peanuts that is left on the table for snacking. Sure, you’ve had peanuts before, and some of them have probably been roasted. But you have not had anything quite like these, which are dry and crunchy, a little spicy and deeply flavorful.
And that is just what they give you for free.
A whole section of the menu is devoted to ceviches, in case people might be foolish enough to eat here without having at least one. Go with the basic Ceviche Pescado ($14), flounder “cooked” to its maximum chewy potential. The time it takes to work the final product through your teeth will provide just enough time to taste the fresh lime and lemon juices, accentuated by the mild blend of salt and cilantro. There are more complex items in this section for those already initiated in the wonders of Peruvian ceviche, featuring different fish, sauces, spices and creams. But start with the basics.
The Papa Rellena ($9) is a must-eat, one people should come from miles around just to look at, to smell—and if they are truly lucky, to taste. Essentially a ball of mashed potatoes stuffed with beef, olives and raisins and then dropped into the fryer, the Papa Rellena is an amazement—a gift from the kitchen unto the world. Dressed with the marinated fresh onions and cilantro which come atop most appetizers, the Papa Rellena becomes a masterpiece, savory and sweet, crunchy and smooth, pointedly spicy and soft on the palate like the most glorious comfort food. Have as many as you can, provided you leave room for the other amazing dishes. If you think much time will pass before you return to Lima’s Taste again, order some to go, stuff your pockets with them if you must.
Settle in for the Aji de Pollo ($15) as your main course, and let the creamy yellow pepper sauce wash over your tongue, your whole mouth, your entire being. Like a cup of hot chocolate on a cold winter day, the Aji de Pollo will warm you to your core. Even those stuffed to the gills with Papa Rellenas will gobble every last piece of meat and sauce off this plate. There is nothing “third world” about a country which can create dishes like this.
The Escaveche ($16) is also done very well, with the chicken cooked to a deep brown in vinegar and a mélange of vegetables like the precisely-cooked sweet onions which both bring out the flavor and stand on their own.
Now, sure, the service is a little slow and not really service in the traditional sense: four requests for a refilled glass of water resulted in half a glass being poured before the waiter wandered away again. This is partially made up for by the enthusiasm with which they take the orders, suggesting good items, pointing out which beers are the best to pair with each dish (hint: the Cristal is usually the best). This should not be a major concern. The menu is the real reason to go to most restaurants, and on that front, Lima’s Taste excels. Go there. Now.
