Kellari Taverna
19 w. 44th (btwn. 5th & 6th Aves.)
212.221.0144
Although I love Greek food, I’m usually suspicious of the posh, pricey Greek restaurants in Manhattan. Growing up in Michigan, I loved trips to Greek Town in downtown Detroit, a small Greek community now dwarfed by a casino. I looked forward to the creamy avgolemono soup, fresh grape leaves and sweet baklava. But my favorite dish without a doubt was saganaki. Waiters would bring a block of cheese to the table, and with the plate perched high on the waiter’s shoulder, douse it with brandy, light it on fire and yell “Opa!”
It didn’t occur to me until years later that this authentic Greek custom might be less than authentic. I mean, what’s more American than an explosion of fried cheese? I fear my expectations for authentic Greek food have been skewed. Nevertheless, I appreciate the simple flavors of Greek food and Kellari Taverna in Midtown certainly delivers.
During my first visit I was skeptical. Walking into the restaurant on a sunny day, it seemed dark and stuffy. But once inside the doors, the exposed wood beams and shadowed corners felt warm and inviting. I stopped in with a few friends to sample the 28 wines Kellari serves by the glass ($8-$14). As we sipped on wine and nibbled on briny olives, we surveyed the scene. The bar was sleek, but the dining room was bustling. I decided I had to return to try the food.
On my second visit, I went with a few girlfriends. We sat at a table in the front and the waiters fawned over us. I asked one question about the wine and our waiter immediately sent over Kellari’s sommelier. A few minutes later, wine glasses filled with various reds and whites spread across our table. The sommelier insisted on letting us taste (by way of full glasses) different Greek varietals until we found our favorites. Mine was the Cabernet Agiorgitiko from Greece ($10 a glass). Happily buzzed, we began our meal with a roasted eggplant spread ($7.95) and goat cheese baked with apricots, Metaxa (Greek liquor made with brandy and wine) and almonds ($12.95). Kellari’s menu has a long list of interesting small plates perfect for sharing. The meatballs ($12.95) and white beans braised with tomatoes and herbs ($9.95) are also delicious.
I couldn’t resist trying the Greek salad ($12.95) and Kellari’s is a crisp mix of tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, olives and feta. During the summer, I love the Greek salad with watermelon they offer: the sweet watermelon complements the salty olives and feta perfectly.
Kellari Taverna, which opened in February 2006, specializes in seafood and has nine varieties of whole grilled fish on the menu priced by the pound. In addition, they also have braised, sautéed and encrusted seafood entrees. I ordered sea bass braised with a tomato broth ($26.95) which was tender and flavorful. My friend chose the roasted chicken breast stuffed with artichokes, cheese and potatoes ($19.95) and loved the juicy chicken and savory stuffing.
When the dessert menu came around, we couldn’t stomach the thought of more food. The complimentary tray of three types of cookies that came with the bill hit the spot, however.
I was convinced that Kellari was my Greek haven in the city. The food was appealing and had all the Mediterranean flavors I crave, and so I brought my parents to try it when they visited a few months ago. They enjoyed the small plates and tender fish but weren’t quite sold on the idea of the upscale Greek spot. I told them they were being stubborn and that much of the Greek food we were used to in Detroit wasn’t innovative or interesting. They said it wasn’t the same without flaming saganaki. I told them they were being Midwestern and unsophisticated. But secretly, I knew they were right.
19 w. 44th (btwn. 5th & 6th Aves.)
212.221.0144
Although I love Greek food, I’m usually suspicious of the posh, pricey Greek restaurants in Manhattan. Growing up in Michigan, I loved trips to Greek Town in downtown Detroit, a small Greek community now dwarfed by a casino. I looked forward to the creamy avgolemono soup, fresh grape leaves and sweet baklava. But my favorite dish without a doubt was saganaki. Waiters would bring a block of cheese to the table, and with the plate perched high on the waiter’s shoulder, douse it with brandy, light it on fire and yell “Opa!”
It didn’t occur to me until years later that this authentic Greek custom might be less than authentic. I mean, what’s more American than an explosion of fried cheese? I fear my expectations for authentic Greek food have been skewed. Nevertheless, I appreciate the simple flavors of Greek food and Kellari Taverna in Midtown certainly delivers.
During my first visit I was skeptical. Walking into the restaurant on a sunny day, it seemed dark and stuffy. But once inside the doors, the exposed wood beams and shadowed corners felt warm and inviting. I stopped in with a few friends to sample the 28 wines Kellari serves by the glass ($8-$14). As we sipped on wine and nibbled on briny olives, we surveyed the scene. The bar was sleek, but the dining room was bustling. I decided I had to return to try the food.
On my second visit, I went with a few girlfriends. We sat at a table in the front and the waiters fawned over us. I asked one question about the wine and our waiter immediately sent over Kellari’s sommelier. A few minutes later, wine glasses filled with various reds and whites spread across our table. The sommelier insisted on letting us taste (by way of full glasses) different Greek varietals until we found our favorites. Mine was the Cabernet Agiorgitiko from Greece ($10 a glass). Happily buzzed, we began our meal with a roasted eggplant spread ($7.95) and goat cheese baked with apricots, Metaxa (Greek liquor made with brandy and wine) and almonds ($12.95). Kellari’s menu has a long list of interesting small plates perfect for sharing. The meatballs ($12.95) and white beans braised with tomatoes and herbs ($9.95) are also delicious.
I couldn’t resist trying the Greek salad ($12.95) and Kellari’s is a crisp mix of tomatoes, onions, cucumbers, olives and feta. During the summer, I love the Greek salad with watermelon they offer: the sweet watermelon complements the salty olives and feta perfectly.
Kellari Taverna, which opened in February 2006, specializes in seafood and has nine varieties of whole grilled fish on the menu priced by the pound. In addition, they also have braised, sautéed and encrusted seafood entrees. I ordered sea bass braised with a tomato broth ($26.95) which was tender and flavorful. My friend chose the roasted chicken breast stuffed with artichokes, cheese and potatoes ($19.95) and loved the juicy chicken and savory stuffing.
When the dessert menu came around, we couldn’t stomach the thought of more food. The complimentary tray of three types of cookies that came with the bill hit the spot, however.
I was convinced that Kellari was my Greek haven in the city. The food was appealing and had all the Mediterranean flavors I crave, and so I brought my parents to try it when they visited a few months ago. They enjoyed the small plates and tender fish but weren’t quite sold on the idea of the upscale Greek spot. I told them they were being stubborn and that much of the Greek food we were used to in Detroit wasn’t innovative or interesting. They said it wasn’t the same without flaming saganaki. I told them they were being Midwestern and unsophisticated. But secretly, I knew they were right.
