Indeed, when you’ve got a spot with a name meant to evoke the glamour of old New York, you need your restaurant to look the part. So whether you’re in the sunken bar area or, as we were once recent night, the dark, charming dining room— where walls are now covered in photos of the eatery’s glory days—it’s easy to feel like you’ve walked off of Prince Street into a time warp. Calton’s new menu does nothing to disturb that illusion. Standby appetizers like smoked salmon with toast points, oysters on the half shall, fried calamari and classic lobster bisque showcase the chef’s focus on tradition but little of the flourish that his longtime mentor David Burke is known for (and, as my companion pointed out, equally little generosity when it comes to salt). Easing into the meal isn’t a bad thing, however, since entrees and desserts have plenty of panache to make up for the starters.
After a few spoonfuls of the bisque ($9) and a complete demolition of the plate of fried squid ($10), we moved on to a satellite-dish-sized bowl of lobster risotto ($25) and a rib eye ($30) that came with a large, alluring cone of French fries.
What was most surprising about the meal wasn’t the food—it was delicious and, in some cases, playful—but what we ordered. Sure, we’re both game for a big dinner, but in all the meals we’ve had together, I don’t think there has ever been so much blue-blazer cuisine (or well aged Scotch). Something about the room made it just fine to sink into our chairs and knock our cholesterol up a few points.
Naturally, dessert was rich and hearty. An apple pie baked in a skillet and topped with pumpkin ice cream was the perfect, gut-busting end to our meal. We were prepared to skip the sweet stuff—cheesecakes and a molten chocolate number on the menu sounded too heavy— but I am loath to pass up anything kissed by the flavor of that big, orange squash.
The right choice was made. With everyone talking about cutting back on dining out, it can be tough to justify meals that you could make at home or throw together with friends. After dining at the Cub Room, I have to say it’s worth the investment. Few restaurants are so welcoming and warm, and if the dishes are a bit predictable, at least the familiarity is something to take comfort in.
> The Cub Room
131 Sullivan St. (at Prince St.), 212-677-4100
The classy Cub Room located in Soho.
Something about the room made it just fine to sink into our chairs and knock our cholesterol up a few points.
