Valentino: The Last Emperor

Valentino: The Last Emperor
Directed by Matt Tyrnauer

Choosing the style of “direct cinema” over investigative reporting or critical biography, journalist Matt Tyrnauer extends his career as “celebrity-reporter” (that oxymoron almost exclusively used for Vanity Fair feature writers) with the feature-length fashion-world documentary Valentino:The Last Emperor.Tyrnauer covers the final two years (2005-2006) of Valentino’s haute couture empire, ending with an elaborate tribute to the designer’s 45-year career dressing famous ladies and “Valentino Red”: the CMYK trademarked magenta, yellow and black combo.

This celebrity report glances at Valentino Garavani’s runway preparations and the corporate maneuvers overseen by his long-time partner Giancarlo Giammetti. An exclusive peek isn’t the same as insight into Valentino’s art (the personal understanding that distinguish Morrissey’s great B-track “Christian Dior”); in fact it seems odd that Tyrnauer garlands this doc with clips from La Dolce Vita and music tracks from 8 1/2. But something remarkable happens in the last half-hour.Valentino’s vanity, insecurities and modest pride are revealed as he prepares to retire at age 75 and faces the pressure of a final tribute (including France’s Légion d’honneur).

Here’s where Tyrnauer’s experience in the haute monde sharpens his viewpoint and The Last Emperor becomes a genuine Felliniesque procession of the rich, powerful and over-awed. He reveals humility beneath the flamboyance and pomposity.Tyrnauer fulfills his journalistic obligation after all.