Peering through its bare front windows, I’m hooked by Cornelius’ bait: an impressive array of 200 craft distilled liquors that live under spotlights behind the bar.The whiskey-heavy collection—largely from American distillers—is the handiwork of Soda Bar owner Anatoly Dubinsky, who shifted just a few blocks north to open his newest Vanderbilt Avenue venture.

Taking a cue from its address, the place is named after New York shipping and railroad baron Cornelius Vanderbilt, whose 19th-century trades are echoed in the warm pine-paneled ceiling. Looking up as I walk in, it feels like I’m riding in the first class car of an old train. Historical too is the old-timey soundtrack of blues, jazz and doo-wop, which provides a soft undercurrent to the chatty Friday night crowd. Among the banter around me is a lively discussion of Howard Zinn’s

A Peoples’ History of the United States, which along with the booze is another sign that this saloon claims an unmistakably American pedigree.

“We’re in a bad situation, so why not support our country,” offers Dubinsky—a burly Russian émigré—on his choice to utilize distillers from his adopted home. Organic, berry-infused gins (Philadelphia’s Bluecoat Gin, $8), Cajun spiced delta rums (Old New Orleans, $9) and mapleflavored Vermont vodkas (Vermont Gold, $8), comprise just some of the local imbibing options, but it’s the abundant availability of fermented wort that really makes me drool. And that’s just the idea behind the free weeknight whiskey tastings currently being offered.

Though worthy ambassadors from Scotland, Ireland and Canada are on hand, I’m feeling sufficiently patriotic to spring for all-American blends, which arrive as a trio of wee one-ounce drams. My favorite of the bunch is the aptly named Hudson Baby Bourbon (normally $17 a pour), New York State’s first post-Prohibition variety. A three-month aging process—baby-sized by typical standards—accounts for the smoothly sharp experience of this “bomb-ass bourbon,” as Erin, my tasting guide calls it.

Notable too is the Bernheim Original ($9), a sweet but biting wheat whiskey from Kentucky.Though I’m typically a straight up kind of guy, the assemblage of mason jars on the glass-tiled bar—all full of fresh mixing ingredients like sage and pear puree—convey a sense of seriousness about cocktails that I feel obliged to explore. Deliciously chewable chunks of ginger make my $10 Presbyterian stand out, but sadly, they sap the spirit right out of the whiskey. I should have gone for an unadulterated glass of hoptastic Elysian ESB ($6) or a super chocolaty helping of Goose Island Stout ($6), both worthwhile tap selections.

But beyond all the liquid libations that flow through this casual haunt, is a menu of American-themed small plates that satisfy both hunger and taste. A good bet is the gooey mac and cheese with hot bacon lardons ($13), which despite a topping of fresh arugula, will cancel the day’s healthy eating and leave you with a smile. Better yet, it’s a great way to prepare yourself for another few drinks.

> Cornelius

555 Vanderbilt Ave. (betw. Dean & Pacific Sts.), Brooklyn, 718-398-6662