Photo by Daniel S. Burnstein
Next to the tall, unmarked door of Cal Elliott’s restaurant Rye, there is an awning that says “Southside Speakeasy Lounge.”The place was closed, but it felt like a symbol pointing the way to the speakeasystyle restaurant next to it.You wouldn’t know Rye resided behind the glass and wood doors unless you were looking for it, and even then its existence remains in doubt.
Though unlike a true underground saloon, the two-month-old Rye is primarily a restaurant and features an extensive menu of delectable snacks, sides, plates and a raw bar. When we last visited, during the restaurant’s soft opening, the place had a small menu and was still working out the kinks. Setbacks aside, this dark and spacious Williamsburg eatery is up and smoothly running—well worth the wait for a night of fine dining, good service and a relaxed atmosphere.
One of the things I liked best about the space is how the room is divided. When you walk in, a dozen or so tables line the walls and windows across from the classic, large wooden bar.Toward the back, an other wall separates the bar from a more intimate area with about six tables. Not only does this offer the promise of privacy, but the division helps curb the noise so you can actually have a decent conversation with your companions. A tete-a-tete, perhaps, about what you are going to order and whether you should share. Since many of the items lend themselves to sharing, it’s highly recommended.
Off the snack menu, we had the short rib slider ($8) and the meatloaf sandwich ($12). The short rib slider was a savory hand-held treat good for a quick, simple bite with one of Rye’s famous old-fashioned cocktails ($10), a nicely balanced mix of its namesake liquor, sugar, two kinds of bitters and orange zest.The flavors in the slider were basic but definitely tasty as the juicy meat soaked the bread and helped to flavor the coleslaw slathered on top.
While the slider came out small, the meatloaf sandwich proved monstrous. Slapped on a toasted hoagie roll, the ‘loaf was thick and filled with the classic spices one would find in any home-style restaurant or grandmother’s kitchen.The whole of the sandwich was a little much, with fried onions covering the meatloaf and the layer of greens, but the flavor proved to be a savory companion to a drink at the bar and well worth the price.
Having been trained to expect tiny portions at nice restaurants, we were surprised at the large side dishes Rye served up.The pungent macaroni and cheese ($8) came out in a deep lunch-sized crock, bubbling with nutty fontina, pecorino and Parmesan. The sautéed red chard ($6) was also served in a hefty sized dish and added a much-needed green to our artery-clogging meal. (The heft of the rest of the fare didn’t stop us from ordering $12 Berkshire pork belly, which melted on my tongue into a pool of rich, fatty smoked salt.)
Rye serves most of the dishes from its original menu, though it seems to have altered ingredients and prices. I was glad to see the fresh, creamy, Grizzly Bear–approved beet salad ($10) was still offered as well as the salty sea scallop ($11). On the entrée list, Rye still has the wild striped bass ($22) sans the clams that used to accompany it, and the wild mushroom lasagna ($16) with three kinds of fungi and a pecorino.
As Billie Holiday,The White Stripes and Mazzy Star softly played, my companions and I finished up our bottle of Millbrook Vineyards’ pinot noir, a wonderful spicy wine from the Hudson River Valley, and took in the slow, relaxing feeling that seems to naturally come to Rye.
> Rye
247 S. 1st St. (between Roebling & Havemeyer Sts.), Brooklyn, 718-218-8047
