Photo by Daniel S. Burnstein
ENTREPRENEUR Hayne Suthon has a thing for gimmicks. Responsible for drag cabaret Lucky Cheng’s and the tacky exuberance of now-extinct, Hawaiithemed Waikiki Willy’s, the lady likes to fake it for dramatic effect.The tricky thing about Marfa, the high-concept simulacra of a dining spot in the Texas artist outpost, is that it’s more identifiable to Donald Judd fetishists and less welcoming to foodies or need-to-be-entertained tourists.
It’s almost as if they’ve decided to hang an UNWELCOME sign in the window— which may appeal to the art snobs looking to remember their days in the desert. A color photo of Ingar Dragset and Michael Elmgreen’s “Prada Marfa,” a cheeky artist poke in the eye to high fashion’s interminable slouch to populate every corner of the globe, hangs on one wall. If you don’t feel like you’re in on the joke, luckily the comfort food dishes make up for the chilly, spacious dining room that replaced Waikiki Willy’s “tropical” décor.
To get over the feeling of being in a deserted cantina, order up a Marfarita ($9), the signature margarita that includes grapefruit/Serrano chili-infused tequila, grapefruit juice and jalapeño. House-infused tequila shots ($8 or two for $15) will also get you sufficiently loose to begin plowing through the menu of Southwestern standards.
You can’t go wrong with the mini corn dogs ($6), a bowl of little cornmeal-covered bits that are perfect for popping. Also, there’s no shame or risk in ordering up a small plates of the dry-rub baby back ribs ($9), which provided enough finger-licking for two, or fish tacos ($8).The most memorable dish in the bunch was the pulled-pork and guac tostadas ($7) since they combined tender meat with a toothy crunch.
I’ll admit I have a soft spot for chicken fried steak, and chef Harun Shah’s version ($17, accompanied by mashed potatoes and spinach) may not strive to reinvent, but it certainly satisfies.The portion I had didn’t slop over the edges of the plate as most Southern spots usually do in an effort to impress with abundance, but it was certainly enough to satisfy the healthiest of urban appetites.
That doesn’t mean they don’t know how to get you stuffed.They’ve not only just imported the Texas tastes, they have some serious only-outside-Manhattan prices.The Marfa Appetizer Platters take some of the guesswork of ordering by pairing a group of small plates for maximum food exposure. The El Cheapo Platter ($9 per person, minimum two people) includes ribs, corn dogs, chipotle chicken wings and vegetarian chili for a major deal. Or go all the way with the Big Texas Platter ($18 per person): all of the above, but add on barbecued shrimp, the pork tostadas, Marfa red chili and a shot of tequila.That may be the best deal on quality grub in town.
In fact, that’s what I most enjoyed about Marfa. Despite its art-world pretensions, the food was stick-to-your-ribs great: no need for fancy anomalous ingredients or experimental techniques. And with the current “Art Recession Specials” being offered, it’s the sort of place you should bring a group of friends to create your own good times. I know I’ll be back for West Texas Trash Wednesdays, when all-you-can-eat fried chicken is offered for $9, along with $3 PBRs. More of those sorts of ideas, please.
> Marfa
101 E. 2nd St. (betw. 1st Ave. & Ave. A), 212-673-8908
