IF APPLE STARTED making restaurants, they might be exactly like Macbar.
From its bright yellow, seamless plastic interior to the inventive if environmentally unsound food packaging and the noodleshaped case you get if you order a medium macaroni and cheese, this place screams sleek and chic.
Actually, Macbar, owned by the same team behind Delicatessen, Soho’s momtrendy update on Cafeteria, is a cut above what I would expect an iMeal to taste like.
The two-month-old spot offers 12 different versions of macaroni and cheese in three different sizes ($5.99-$17.99), as well as prepackaged salads ($4.99-$9.99) and stylish, alcohol-free beverages ($1.25- $2.99) all served by smiling young workers wearing customized Vans.
My gang and I dove into six of the options, all sized small, all gooey, all damn tasty. Each of the dishes was baked to perfection, with the insides hot and melty and the top brown and crispy. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes to get an order, but every one is made fresh. My favorite of the ones we sampled was the “Mac lobsta’” ($8.99). It surprised me due to its unbelievable lightness, explained by the use of mascarpone cheese instead of a classic cheddar or fontina. Because of the mild nature of the cheese, the freshness of the lobster chunks really came through, and mixed with tarragon and cognac, the flavors eased together to create a rich and delicious combo.
The “MacShroom” also uses mascarpone, but includes fontina as well. Flavor oozes from the roasted mushrooms and truffle essence in the dish, and the base gives it a meaty taste despite it being completely vegetarian. Next up was the “Margarita Mac” ($6.99), which tasted exactly like a slice of margarita pizza, only with a bizarre texture.Tossed with fresh tomatoes and basil, the cheese choice is obvious— mozzarella and Parmesan. Heading into the realm of unusual cheese, the “Mayan Chipotle Mac” ($6.99) is made with a creamy, mild Chihuahua.This spicy choice comes with tender chunks of chicken and green onions, which made it feel like a well-balanced meal and left me feeling guiltless the next morning when I polished off the leftovers for breakfast.
And while some strange combos—the “Mac Reuben” ($7.99) with sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing—work well, the dullest of the offerings here is certainly the classic macaroni and cheese ($5.99), made with American and cheddar, which lacks the kick of the others.
Really, most of the problems with Macbar have nothing to do with the food. The biggest issue is seating. While we managed to snag some room on the leather banquet and one of the six stools, the cafe only has enough space for maybe a dozen people to dine there. Also, grab a paper menu if you don’t want to go crazy trying to read the digital one that flashes graphics of flying noodles every few seconds.
Those issues aside, Macbar’s sharp, albeit expensive, take on a classic is pleasant and comforting in that self-conscious yuppie way that having nice things often brings about—just like an Apple, but a hell of a lot tastier.
> Macbar
54 Prince St. (betw. Mulberry & Lafayette Sts.), 212- 226-0211
