I live in Midwood, a part of Brooklyn where I can get the food of the Chosen People any time. But Glatt Kosher and Formica tables don’t ring my bell; I like a little pizzazz with my Jewish Deli fare. Lansky’s Old World Deli, which has been open for just over a year on Columbus Avenue, is not your Zada and Bubbe’s Katz’s or Carnegie—and that’s just fine.

When you enter the cavernous Lansky’s, you’re greeted by one of the co-owners, Mr. Ross, a friendly, 90-year-old on a stool. On my first visit, my friend Philomena and I went on a Sunday evening and were given one of their green booths way in the back. We had nearly the entire area to ourselves so we gave the place the once over. Unlike the average delicatessen, instead of harsh, fluorescent lights, the frosted glass globes along the walls gave off a softer feel. Rather than photographs or posters, Lansky’s has velvety wallpaper.

There’s a lot of unexpected fun to be had with the menu. You can go for deep-fried “devil dog” hot dogs or try the “knishwich”, a knish topped with corned beef, pastrami and muenster. I had to have an egg cream ($2.25), which I happily gulped in seconds. With unbridled joy, Philomena noticed that the Happy Hour special (4:30 to closing every day) meant $3 beers and had a Stella.

We shared a plate of latkes ($3.75), which were thick, enormous and as she put it, “devilish. Fried, salty, tasty.” I like mine with more potato and less crust, but they definitely hit the spot. For the sheer strangeness of finding it on a deli menu, I chose the Maryland crab cake sandwich ($10.95) for my entree. After the latke, Philomena could only manage the Maryland crab cake starter with sweet corn and bacon ($6.95). With my eye on dessert, I only hate half but thought the crab cake was simple and well made and a good alternative to all of the heaping sandwich platters. Sadly, they were out of chocolate babka, but the slice of old fashioned chocolate cake ($4.95) was wonderfully rich, moist and probably bigger than the two colossal latkes.

Feeling like I should check out Lansky’s with a dedicated meat lover, I met up a week later with my chiropractor. He too was charmed by Mr. Ross as we were escorted to our booths, but this time among the bustling afternoon atmosphere and not deep in uninhabited territory.

We perused the menu for so long – him trying to decide which gigantic sandwich to go for and me wanting something more authentic than crab - that one of the concerned co-owners came over and wondered why we didn’t have any food on the table. Before ordering I asked about babka. The waitress said they were already out and that it was one of the few items not made in house.

After considering the knishwich, the doc ordered the “overstuffed” pastrami sandwich ($10.95). I picked the whitefish platter, but then the waitress, seemingly unsure, came back and asked me if I had wanted the salad or the smoked fish. She said her customers aren’t that brave and never order the smoked version so of course, I had to have that ($12.95). It was a beautiful piece of fish with few small bones. So much better than the boring salad! The good doctor said the pastrami was sliced thinner than usual but said the meat was “succulent, delicious and juicy. Gets my highest recommendation.”

Having not recovered from my babka disappointment, I just had a chocolate chip cookie ($.65). Dr. Cucci opted for Lucky’s favourite sundae made with matzo butter crunch ($4.95). He loved the sundae, but was particularly smitten with the matzo.

After two trips to Lansky’s, I felt forlorn about the absence of a true delicatessen nearby. Since the babka quest continues, I will be going back, and come hell or high water, I will have my babka.

> Lansky’s Old World Deli

235 Columbus Avenue

212-787-0400

Entrees between $5.25 and $16.95