Tucked in the cellar of a former townhouse and marked by a garish neon sign, the subterranean space is decked out in the sort of old New York glamour—think marble floors, pressed-tin ceilings and lighting from vintage chandeliers—that immediately transports one from the hustle of Houston Street above. But as struck as I was by the luxe, romantic room, I was bound to discover what my friend Sarah, already nursing a hearty glass of Clos Vauriou ($9) at the century-old mahogany bar, had by now figured out: Bar Henry is all about the wine.

“We really have something for everyone,” says John Slover, the Grand Cru wine consultant who compiled the list of over 100 offerings. “You can come in for an $8 glass, or for some of the best wine in the world.”

While Slover clearly favors Old World selections, no one can accuse him of snobbery: his unique bottle-sharing option, allowing customers to order a half-bottle of any wine on the market list, is positively egalitarian.The rest of the bottle is offered up for by the glass imbibing, as Sarah and I were lucky enough to discover with a lovely Beaujolais ($9 a glass)

Those who lean toward liquor need not fret. Affable drink-master Patrick Costigan is happy to mix up something off of Bar Henry’s cocktail list, which features concoctions like the tangy, bourbon-based Tiger Tale ($12) and the Cruzan-mint-and-lime Jay Lung ($14). A brief beer list ($6-8) rounds out the alcoholic offerings.

For all the delicious ways to get drunk at Bar Henry, the prevailing ambience of the narrow bar room is still definitely low-key, with soft jazz on the sound system doing nothing to dispel the sense that this is a ‘grown-up’ establishment.While the place purportedly fills up on a weekend nights, it’s hard to imagine Bar Henry ever aspiring to the ranks of a sceney Keith McNally joint. Owner Winston Kulok has more down-to-earth ambitions for this, his second Village offering with wife Carole Bergman Kulok—the first is Cafe Henri on Bedford Street. “I want for my customers what I want for myself,” he says. “A warm and inviting atmosphere, a New York flavor and, most importantly, excellent staff.”

There’s no denying that Bar Henry shines when it comes to service. Each staff member we encountered, from the hostess to our waiter in the petite dining room, where satisfying American bistro fare is served, was knowledgeable and courteous, without ever displaying the pretension that I associate with oenophile culture. Everyone was so friendly, I actually found myself bidding adieu to each staff member by name—something I haven’t done since my booze-filled Brother Jimmy’s days.

But despite its proximity to NYU, genial staff is probably the only thing Bar Henry has in common with a college hangout. In fact, Sarah and I both remarked how much our wino moms would love this place or, alternatively, how perfect it would be for a seal-the-deal date.Whatever brings us back to this charming, cocoon-like spot, one thing’s for sure: when Kulok winks and insists that “nothing bad will ever happen to you at Bar Henry,” we believe him.

> Bar Henry

90 West Houston St. (betw. Thompson St. & Laguardia Pl.), 646-448-4559.