K! Pizzacone is located at 325 Fifth Avenue. / Photo by Linnea Covington
Before it even properly
launched, K! Pizzacone became a legend. A to-go box from the restaurant’s
opening day sold for $56 on eBay, and one man from Charlottesville, Va., was so
enamored with the idea of the pizzacone that he took a bus to New York during a
category-5 blizzard, just to get a taste. “It was
delicious,” he wrote in a blog post, which was merely signed “Alex.” But Alex’s
excitement for K! Pizzacone isn’t unusual. On opening day last month the tiny,
day-glow take-out joint was packed with the hungry, the curious and, of course,
the food bloggers.
Adam
Kuban from Serious Eats and Slice, a blog all about pizza, was among the ranks
salivating to try the new dish. “I'd
been waiting years for pizza cones to land in New York City,” he explained over
email. In his blog post, Kuban dedicated photos, texts and a suspenseful
“opening of the box” video to document his experience. “It was fun to eat, but
ultimately it ends up being a little pricey for what it is.”
But what is it exactly? K! Pizzacone serves pizza in what resembles an
ice cream cone. Basically, you go in, pick your size ($5.90 for large or $4.90
for small), and the brightly-clad counter person will stuff your cone with
cheese, red sauce or pesto, and any basic pizza ingredients you want ($1 extra
buys you as many “toppings” as you can handle). Then into the specially designed,
16-cone-per oven it goes, and, five minutes later, you have a crispy shell
oozing with hot, cheesy goodness.
Inspired by a similar
concept in Brazil, Russia and Italy, the idea for the restaurant came from
owner Ingo Pinto. After moving to New York from Portugal two years ago for
business school, Pinto decided his future would be better served by actually
starting a business. So he and a business partner (who wishes to remain
anonymous) thought it was time to bring pizzacones to the city.
“In New York, when you are
walking around you want something fast,” explained Pinto. “I am a fan of pizza
and there are lots of kinds—from gourmet to dessert—so I wanted to come up with
a concept, and the cone was working.” His partner added over the phone: “Pizza
doesn’t have to be flat.”
The pair opened the shop
near the end of February in what used to be a frozen yogurt joint. According to
Pinto, they spent months looking for a venue that would carry enough foot
traffic and—in the small space near the Empire State Building, the City
University Graduate School and Herald Square shopping area—it appears they
struck gold. In just the short time they have been open, K! Pizzacone sells approximately
200 to 250 cones per day, according to Pinto. Made with top-secret dough, the
cones are baked in a kitchen in Connecticut and shipped fresh daily.
Each cone comes in a
variety of flavors: classic pepperoni with mozzarella, a breakfast cone, a
vegetarian blend or a spicy chili cone—that tastes like a bread bowl full of
cheesy chili. Two rich, dessert cones—stuffed with a melted dark chocolate and
your choice of sweet banana flambé or mixed berries—are also available.
On the savory side, I
particularly liked the four cheeses, with its thick, yet fluffy blend of mozzarella,
provolone, ricotta and Parmesan—which goes great with the mild pesto sauce. The
mushroom-bacon came out dry and a bit heavy on the bacon. But the pepperoni
with black olive and the easy, dash-and-dine convenience of eating it redeemed
the pizzacone in my opinion. Kuban the pizza connoisseur, however, is not
convinced.
“It’s a novelty, and in the end, how can you beat a
great New York slice?” Kuban asked. But
based on the continuing stream of customers, it appears people will flock to
try a new way to eat the pie.
“I think the whole thing
about people having to choose between a slice and cone, I don’t see it that
way,” Pinto’s mysterious silent partner said in a phone interview. “You may
want pizza in a cone one day or a slice another. I don’t see it as a replacement,
I see it as a different way of eating it.”






