Hudson River Cafe
697 W. 133rd St. (at 12th Ave.)
212-491-9111
I feel the rumble, hear the clackity-clack as something whizzes by overhead. “Whoa, what was that?” I ask the diners nearby.
“It was an Amtrak train.”
Imagine quietly enjoying flavorful paella as you gaze across the Hudson when suddenly a train whizzes by your head. Crazy?
Well, not to the people behind the four-month-old Harlem hotspot, Hudson River Cafe.
Situated on West 133rd Street and 12th Avenue, Hudson River Cafe is a much-needed addition to an area with few fine dining establishments. It’s a dead zone that usually attracts rambunctious crowds who dig into Dinosaur Bar-B-Que’s ribs or shoppers who enter the hulking Fairway nestled under the West Side Highway, but will inevitably see more development as Columbia University plans its Manhattanville campus expansion at the restaurant’s doorstep.
Although the weather may be getting cooler, it hasn’t stopped a whole new group of revelers from congregating on the HRC’s two outdoor patios. The bi-level eatery can host as many as 100 diners outside and more than 50 inside. Black metal banisters, wooden floorboards, wicker and metal chairs, comfortable couches and flower boxes dominate the second-story balcony. An auto shop formerly occupied the site and now the exterior of HRC looks a bit generic (think suburban bland), with metal and wood chairs resting underneath khaki canopies on the street-level stone patio.
The interior is decidedly more modern and chic. Large wooden, Chinese-style lanterns hang from the cathedral ceiling as diners recline on orange silk banquettes and black chairs. Picture windows overlook 12th Avenue and an oversized flowerpot with orchids, gladiolas, lilies and chrysanthemums dominates the center of the room. The mood is more romantic and the low lighting and dark wood floor only adds to that feeling.
The food is chic without being too pretentious. Chef Ricardo Cardona (Yuca Bar, Lua) uses fresh ingredients, such as Bell & Evans organic chicken, in his Pan-Latino-influenced cuisine. There’s the requisite ceviche—tuna, artic char and red snapper—as well as gazpacho and churrasco. But Cardona also pays homage to Harlem by offering baby back ribs ($12) and pork chops ($19).
I ordered the oyster ceviche special to start. The creamy Kumamoto oysters (market price) were divine, a perfect foil for the diced avocados, peppers and onions. We also tried the jumbo lump crab cakes ($10)—served with a small fennel salad, remoulade sauce and orange slices—and were not disappointed.
The main course options seemed endless—from rabbit and chorizo paella ($32) to herb-crusted lamb loin ($24) to duck breast with peaches and Port ($22). I eventually settled for something from the mix-and-match grill portion of the menu. I opted for the branzini ($26), or European sea bass, and selected a mild garlic chimichurri sauce and garlic mashed potatoes. The garlic, oil and onions in the chimichurri didn’t overpower the mild-flavored fish, which was served whole. Those mashed potatoes packed an additional garlic wallop. My friend chose Max’s Paella ($34), which is packed with crayfish, mussels, calamari, scallops, shrimp, olives and peas. He had to get used to being a little messy since, as is traditional, the mussels, shrimp and crayfish are left in their shells. But once he picked out the meat and mixed up the dish, he couldn’t stop raving about the saffron-infused wine broth and creamy rice. “You get seafood in every bite!” he exclaimed.
While we waited for our dessert of flourless chocolate cake, we guzzled our Rioja sangria by the glass ($8). I loved the addition of peaches to the fruit floating in the sweet drink, but I kept wondering what gave it an extra kick. It finally hit me: Lillet, a delicious French aperitif. Great idea.
Our dessert arrived and we dug in. The rich, bittersweet cake was served with a strong-flavored pistachio gelato, sliced strawberries, chocolate sauce and a sprig of mint. It was the perfect end to an enjoyable meal and thoroughly cleansed our palates. Live jazz fills the outdoor area most evenings, adding a bit of Harlem attitude to the new joint. All the food, all the music, it’s enough to make you forget the train traffic zooming above.
697 W. 133rd St. (at 12th Ave.)
212-491-9111
I feel the rumble, hear the clackity-clack as something whizzes by overhead. “Whoa, what was that?” I ask the diners nearby.
“It was an Amtrak train.”
Imagine quietly enjoying flavorful paella as you gaze across the Hudson when suddenly a train whizzes by your head. Crazy?
Well, not to the people behind the four-month-old Harlem hotspot, Hudson River Cafe.
Situated on West 133rd Street and 12th Avenue, Hudson River Cafe is a much-needed addition to an area with few fine dining establishments. It’s a dead zone that usually attracts rambunctious crowds who dig into Dinosaur Bar-B-Que’s ribs or shoppers who enter the hulking Fairway nestled under the West Side Highway, but will inevitably see more development as Columbia University plans its Manhattanville campus expansion at the restaurant’s doorstep.
Although the weather may be getting cooler, it hasn’t stopped a whole new group of revelers from congregating on the HRC’s two outdoor patios. The bi-level eatery can host as many as 100 diners outside and more than 50 inside. Black metal banisters, wooden floorboards, wicker and metal chairs, comfortable couches and flower boxes dominate the second-story balcony. An auto shop formerly occupied the site and now the exterior of HRC looks a bit generic (think suburban bland), with metal and wood chairs resting underneath khaki canopies on the street-level stone patio.
The interior is decidedly more modern and chic. Large wooden, Chinese-style lanterns hang from the cathedral ceiling as diners recline on orange silk banquettes and black chairs. Picture windows overlook 12th Avenue and an oversized flowerpot with orchids, gladiolas, lilies and chrysanthemums dominates the center of the room. The mood is more romantic and the low lighting and dark wood floor only adds to that feeling.
The food is chic without being too pretentious. Chef Ricardo Cardona (Yuca Bar, Lua) uses fresh ingredients, such as Bell & Evans organic chicken, in his Pan-Latino-influenced cuisine. There’s the requisite ceviche—tuna, artic char and red snapper—as well as gazpacho and churrasco. But Cardona also pays homage to Harlem by offering baby back ribs ($12) and pork chops ($19).
I ordered the oyster ceviche special to start. The creamy Kumamoto oysters (market price) were divine, a perfect foil for the diced avocados, peppers and onions. We also tried the jumbo lump crab cakes ($10)—served with a small fennel salad, remoulade sauce and orange slices—and were not disappointed.
The main course options seemed endless—from rabbit and chorizo paella ($32) to herb-crusted lamb loin ($24) to duck breast with peaches and Port ($22). I eventually settled for something from the mix-and-match grill portion of the menu. I opted for the branzini ($26), or European sea bass, and selected a mild garlic chimichurri sauce and garlic mashed potatoes. The garlic, oil and onions in the chimichurri didn’t overpower the mild-flavored fish, which was served whole. Those mashed potatoes packed an additional garlic wallop. My friend chose Max’s Paella ($34), which is packed with crayfish, mussels, calamari, scallops, shrimp, olives and peas. He had to get used to being a little messy since, as is traditional, the mussels, shrimp and crayfish are left in their shells. But once he picked out the meat and mixed up the dish, he couldn’t stop raving about the saffron-infused wine broth and creamy rice. “You get seafood in every bite!” he exclaimed.
While we waited for our dessert of flourless chocolate cake, we guzzled our Rioja sangria by the glass ($8). I loved the addition of peaches to the fruit floating in the sweet drink, but I kept wondering what gave it an extra kick. It finally hit me: Lillet, a delicious French aperitif. Great idea.
Our dessert arrived and we dug in. The rich, bittersweet cake was served with a strong-flavored pistachio gelato, sliced strawberries, chocolate sauce and a sprig of mint. It was the perfect end to an enjoyable meal and thoroughly cleansed our palates. Live jazz fills the outdoor area most evenings, adding a bit of Harlem attitude to the new joint. All the food, all the music, it’s enough to make you forget the train traffic zooming above.
