Los Dados
73 Gansevoort St. (near Washington St.)
648-810-7290
Los Dados, the new high-end Mexican restaurant on the corner of Gansevoort and Washington in the Meatpacking District, faces a double challenge. For one thing, its location at the very apex of the “Meatpack” threatens to undermine any pretense of culinary respectability. Can authenticity of any sort—culinary or otherwise—possibly survive the nightly bacchanal? Second, it would be easy to argue that Mexican cuisine, so delicious even when prepared on the cheap, hardly warrants high-end treatment. While the prices at Los Dados are, by New York standards, quite reasonable, I still can’t stop asking: Why pay $15 for a taco or enchilada?
The first challenge is what it is: Those who can stomach the crowds will come, those who can’t, won’t. The design of Los Dados acknowledges its chaotic location without entirely rejecting it. The bar wraps around the corner and faces the street through floor-to-ceiling windows, embracing the neighborhood’s street-life while shielding the dining area from the nightly parade. Aged brick walls and dark wood tables in the dining room lend the space a homey feel, while ornate chandeliers and ecclesiastical artwork add a touch of theatricality.
Success in meeting the second challenge, however, rests entirely on the talent in the kitchen, and whether the chef can create and execute a menu creative enough to justify the price. Fortunately, the chef in this case is Sue Torres, who has wowed Chelsea residents for years with her inventive take on Mexican cuisine, first at Rocking Horse and later at Sueños. And although the menu at Los Dados has some kinks, for the most part it lives up to Torres’ earlier successes.
Of course, the best way to begin a Mexican meal is with a margarita or two. The standard margarita at Los Dados, priced at $12, is bracing and sweet, but I’d recommend trying one of the specialty cocktails instead like the Chili Palmer ($12) or the Pinche Bueno ($12). Spanish for “fucking good,” the latter consists of a shot of mezcal placed in a lime set afloat in a hibiscus blueberry cocktail. The shot is smoky with a leathery aftertaste, and the cocktail decidedly fruity; in other words, the perfect mix of masculine and feminine for those torn between ordering a “chick drink” or something tougher. If you’re too good for tequila, the wine list includes Chilean, Argentine and Mexican vintages by the glass, and bottles priced from $32 to $75.
As for food, the threshold test of any Mexican restaurant—regardless of price point—is the quality of the salsa and guacamole, and Torres establishes her Mexican credentials right off the bat. The salsa, quite simply, is spectacular. A blend of Serrano, chipotle chili, onions, tomatoes and garlic, it’s ground to the point of emulsification, yet each ingredient dances distinctly on the tongue. The guacamole is also excellent, rich in flavor, with a restrained use of onion that accentuates rather than dominates. Additional appetizers include a mezcal-cured salmon carpaccio ($10), coriander-crusted tuna tostadas ($11) and a chicken mole tamal ($7). Lined up on the plate like a litter of puppies, the beef picadillo mini tacos ($9) are a delight. Served with fresh cheese and pico de gallo, the beef is sweet and flavorful.
The rest of the menu—tacos priced from $14 to $18, enchiladas at $12 to $14 and “main courses” at $14 to $18—is solid, with pockets of brilliance as well as a few misfires. The jalapeño-pineapple salsa that adorned the pork tacos ($14) was delicious, but the meat itself was too spicy for my taste. And I would avoid the ceviche, unless the kitchen has taken steps to improve the preparation. The shrimp ceviche a friend and I sampled was disconcertingly warm, with an unidentifiable spice that weighed the dish down. The grilled shrimp and pork tamal ($18), however, was nothing short of a revelation. The sauce (tomato, onion and garlic pureed with ancho chili) tasted almost acrid at first, but came alive when mixed with the salty pork tamal. The grilled shrimp scattered on top added a note of sweetness to the flavor and firmness to the texture. It’s rare that a single dish evolves so completely and successfully from start to finish, and my friend and I were still discussing it when the dessert menus arrived.
With a partially constructed hotel tower looming overhead and new clubs and boutiques arriving by the day, it seems unlikely that Los Dados will be lacking in customers over the coming months and years. Indeed, Los Dados recently opened an adjacent taqueria to take advantage of this foot traffic. One can only hope that the neighborhood’s young and glitzy crowd appreciates the nuanced approach to ingredients and flavors that elevates Los Dados above regular Mexican fare.
73 Gansevoort St. (near Washington St.)
648-810-7290
Los Dados, the new high-end Mexican restaurant on the corner of Gansevoort and Washington in the Meatpacking District, faces a double challenge. For one thing, its location at the very apex of the “Meatpack” threatens to undermine any pretense of culinary respectability. Can authenticity of any sort—culinary or otherwise—possibly survive the nightly bacchanal? Second, it would be easy to argue that Mexican cuisine, so delicious even when prepared on the cheap, hardly warrants high-end treatment. While the prices at Los Dados are, by New York standards, quite reasonable, I still can’t stop asking: Why pay $15 for a taco or enchilada?
The first challenge is what it is: Those who can stomach the crowds will come, those who can’t, won’t. The design of Los Dados acknowledges its chaotic location without entirely rejecting it. The bar wraps around the corner and faces the street through floor-to-ceiling windows, embracing the neighborhood’s street-life while shielding the dining area from the nightly parade. Aged brick walls and dark wood tables in the dining room lend the space a homey feel, while ornate chandeliers and ecclesiastical artwork add a touch of theatricality.
Success in meeting the second challenge, however, rests entirely on the talent in the kitchen, and whether the chef can create and execute a menu creative enough to justify the price. Fortunately, the chef in this case is Sue Torres, who has wowed Chelsea residents for years with her inventive take on Mexican cuisine, first at Rocking Horse and later at Sueños. And although the menu at Los Dados has some kinks, for the most part it lives up to Torres’ earlier successes.
Of course, the best way to begin a Mexican meal is with a margarita or two. The standard margarita at Los Dados, priced at $12, is bracing and sweet, but I’d recommend trying one of the specialty cocktails instead like the Chili Palmer ($12) or the Pinche Bueno ($12). Spanish for “fucking good,” the latter consists of a shot of mezcal placed in a lime set afloat in a hibiscus blueberry cocktail. The shot is smoky with a leathery aftertaste, and the cocktail decidedly fruity; in other words, the perfect mix of masculine and feminine for those torn between ordering a “chick drink” or something tougher. If you’re too good for tequila, the wine list includes Chilean, Argentine and Mexican vintages by the glass, and bottles priced from $32 to $75.
As for food, the threshold test of any Mexican restaurant—regardless of price point—is the quality of the salsa and guacamole, and Torres establishes her Mexican credentials right off the bat. The salsa, quite simply, is spectacular. A blend of Serrano, chipotle chili, onions, tomatoes and garlic, it’s ground to the point of emulsification, yet each ingredient dances distinctly on the tongue. The guacamole is also excellent, rich in flavor, with a restrained use of onion that accentuates rather than dominates. Additional appetizers include a mezcal-cured salmon carpaccio ($10), coriander-crusted tuna tostadas ($11) and a chicken mole tamal ($7). Lined up on the plate like a litter of puppies, the beef picadillo mini tacos ($9) are a delight. Served with fresh cheese and pico de gallo, the beef is sweet and flavorful.
The rest of the menu—tacos priced from $14 to $18, enchiladas at $12 to $14 and “main courses” at $14 to $18—is solid, with pockets of brilliance as well as a few misfires. The jalapeño-pineapple salsa that adorned the pork tacos ($14) was delicious, but the meat itself was too spicy for my taste. And I would avoid the ceviche, unless the kitchen has taken steps to improve the preparation. The shrimp ceviche a friend and I sampled was disconcertingly warm, with an unidentifiable spice that weighed the dish down. The grilled shrimp and pork tamal ($18), however, was nothing short of a revelation. The sauce (tomato, onion and garlic pureed with ancho chili) tasted almost acrid at first, but came alive when mixed with the salty pork tamal. The grilled shrimp scattered on top added a note of sweetness to the flavor and firmness to the texture. It’s rare that a single dish evolves so completely and successfully from start to finish, and my friend and I were still discussing it when the dessert menus arrived.
With a partially constructed hotel tower looming overhead and new clubs and boutiques arriving by the day, it seems unlikely that Los Dados will be lacking in customers over the coming months and years. Indeed, Los Dados recently opened an adjacent taqueria to take advantage of this foot traffic. One can only hope that the neighborhood’s young and glitzy crowd appreciates the nuanced approach to ingredients and flavors that elevates Los Dados above regular Mexican fare.
