PASSING THE BAR:Chloe 81

THIRD TIME’S A charm at this hardto-find Ludlow Street lair, which is tucked almost invisibly below its upstairs neighbor, the Jin Lin Trading Corp. After two failed visits to this quiet Lower East Side block—the bar is closed on Mondays and I ran into a private party on my second try—I finally finagled my way past the doorman and through the velvet drapes to make my underground escape into Chloe 81’s classy, tiled interior.

At 10:30 the DJ was already pumping dance music as I settled in to the snug surroundings. No more than 10 patrons dotted the dark couches on the early Friday night, but one couple had already energetically lip-locked.

“Reserved” signs peppered the soon-tobe-packed bottle service tables, so I made a beeline for the bar, where I found a trio of the familiar on tap. For a reasonable $5 per 12 oz glass, you can take your pick of low country brews, including Stella, Heineken and Leffe Blonde, though I later heard a rumor that Miller High Life bottles can be had, if you can work up the courage to request them in this chic setting.

As the well dressed slowly streamed in, the place began to turn from bar to club, and four centrally placed leather armchairs were quickly scuttled out of sight to create space for the dancing masses.While the energy mounted, chilled bottles of Veuve Clicquot started to multiply and make their way toward the seated spenders. But even amidst the crowded oblivion, I got the sense that everyone knows everyone else at this neighborhood spot. Errol, an Upper West Side artist who frequently treks south of Delancey, implored me to return on Wednesdays for a weekly party. “And don’t forget Mystery Sundays,” he added, refusing to reveal more. I inquired further with the bartender, whose mood-appropriate black-sequined tank top sparkled in the orange glow of the back bar lighting.

She related that private parties, from birthdays to more corporate events, are standard here; but she was similarly tight lipped regarding Sunday festivities.

By the time I finally caught up with owner Brooke Smy, I glimpsed her celebrating with a few friends, genuinely happy they’ve turned up to enjoy her three-monthold endeavor. Commenting on the entry policy at her cozy, living-room-sized lounge, she said, “It’s small, so we have to be selective at the door.”Translation: Put on your pretty face or you’ll be turned away. The official cocktail menu is imminent, she promised, but for now, $10 glasses of vodka, or whatever else you can convince the bartenders to mix, will do. Food is coming soon, courtesy of street-level neighbor Casanis, a French bistro whose chef is a close friend of Smy’s and helped to inspire Chloe 81’s Parisian aesthetic.

Whether the criteria to enjoy an early evening plate of frites at this subterranean hideout will be as strict as the late night norm remains to be seen. When I departed well past midnight, the formerly non-existent line had crept towards Broome Street, while the doorman peeked up and down the cue to see who might make the grade.

To those of you freezing in wait, good luck getting in.

> Chloe 81

81 Ludlow St. (at Broome St.), 212-677-0067.