A Delight in Florescent Light

International gastronomic delights spring up in Fort Greene almost as fast as Manhattanites move to the Brooklyn neighborhood. Already an Ethiopian place, at least three Mexican joints, two sushi dens, a South African restaurant and dozens of other culinary cultures are represented. Adding to the hood’s repertoire is Deniz, a Turkish restaurant whose name means “sea” in that language.

Deniz opened up two months ago in a former Indian furniture store next to Frank’s, a dive bar known for its old men and cheap drinks. Next to the bar, Deniz looks too polished with large glass windows, a shiny blue and white sign and cleanliness that’s shocking in comparison. Inside, the vast space proves just as tidy.The twodozen or so tables offer heavy wooden chairs and banquet seating and a small bar is nestled in the corner.The orange walls, decorated sporadically with bright paintings, have glass hanging lamps and various Turkish-looking accoutrements.

The restaurant doesn’t look like a place someone would immediately notice, so my friend and I weren’t surprised when we arrived for lunch at and it lay almost empty. The longhaired waiter sat us down and brought over some thick, dark-crusted white bread.We ordered the sigara boregi ($6), hummus ($5), ezme salad ($5), adana kebab ($13), ispanak ($11), and glasses of the light and sweet Turkish wine Cankaya ($8).

The sigara boregi came out first.These little roles of pan-fried phyllo stuffed with feta cheese and spinach resembled four steaming cigars. I took a bite and winced as hot oil dribbled down my hand. “These need more cheese and less butter,” my companion stated, mirroring my thoughts. They tasted good, but were so rich that felt heavy after eating one.

We moved on to the salads, which were beautifully presented swirled on little plates with an olive in the center.The portions for both dishes proved hefty, and as I dipped some bread in the ezme, a spicy salad made of chopped vegetables, olive oil and lemon juice, I gratefully licked the juices from my chin.The fresh, biting flavor of the ezme warranted another bite before moving onto the hummus. I have never had bad hummus and Deniz’s tasted fine.

Next, the entrees came out.The eightinch Adana kebab, ground lamb spiced with red peppers and paprika, filled up the whole plate. I gladly sliced a piece of the steaming meat and chowed down. Expecting it to be a little spicy, I was shocked that its flavor revealed only a mild zing. The texture of the kebab was like eating sausage on a stick, and it maintained moisture without being greasy. Our other entrée, the ispanak—made with spinach, tomatoes and garlic yogurt—tasted like the coming spring. It exhibited a fresh and light seasoning, less heavy compared to the kebab.

I finished the meal with a thick cup of Turkish coffee ($3) and some complementary baklava, which turned out a little soggy albeit flavorful. Aside from the classic kebabs, salads, falafel and desserts, Deniz offers numerous fish dishes like akdeniz levregi ($18); made with branzini (the Mediterranean sea bass) and cipura ($18), grilled or pan-fried Royal Dorado. There’s also turlu ($12), a classic Turkish vegetable casserole, and homemade manti ($12), which is a light dough filled with seasoned lamb and onions, then steamed.

The problem with Deniz doesn’t lie in its extensive menu or mid-range prices; its main issue is it’s not the kind of place that catches one’s attention. Fort Greene has so many hip and trendy restaurants, that Deniz’s bright fish market-like exterior doesn’t call out as a place to have a nice meal. Don’t let that fool you, though, since the size of the portions and $9.95 lunch deal (entrée and a salad or soup) is a bargain for the neighborhood.

Indeed, with a world of options to choose from, Deniz is most definitely worth a visit.

> Deniz

662 Fulton St. (at S. Elliot Pl.), Brooklyn, 718-852-6503