on the night of the last big snowstorm in february, i set out for dinner, demanding to be impressed for my troubles. the challenger: year-old argentinean steak showcase libertador. would i walk back out into the pelting snow too content to notice, or would i be going for my knives?

despite the fearsome weather, the place had a sprinkling of diners. my friend and i chose the middle of the room, between the bar and the meat bar, where you can watch the parrillero (grill master) work the fire. the background music was mainly of the top 40 variety, which didn't really gel with the surroundings. we cheered a bit when a song that could have been argentine came on and wished for more of that.