AN OLD FAVORITE, FOUND WANTING

the former afghan kebab outpost on the upper west side used to be my go-to place when my cook/husband was away. in the wake of 9/11, diners seemed to avoid it. the atmosphere was grim, and the food took forever. yet, just as my children's high-jinks turned to whining-the delicate bulanee would arrive. these flat turnovers, cousin to samosas, are filled with scallion, pumpkin, spinach or potato. they proved an excellent way to get vegetables into my kids before we gorged on the plump chicken and lamb kebabs-cooked in a wood-fired oven-the flavorful basmati rice and the dense, rich bread. nostalgia propelled me into the flagship afghan kebab house one day. just two diners supped there, more a sign of the dismal economy than negative associations with

afghanistan, and i disappointed the waiter by ordering only the scallion and pumpkin bulanee ($3/ea). imagine flattened, stuffed, crispy crepes cut into three large rectangles each. unfortunately, the scallions were strident, nearly raw, and the pumpkin filling was bland. yet, i goosed these bulanee into serviceable snacks with creamy, dill-spiked yogurt and spoonfuls of coriander chutney. with fond memories of aushak-afghan leek dumplings in meat sauce-and the charcoal tinged kebabs, i'll try again another time. -- the afghan kebab house 764 ninth ave. (betw. 51st and 52nd streets) 212-307-1612

got a snack attack to share? contact nbrand@aol.com