Brave New World

there are many questions that i get on a regular basis concerning wine, but the one i get the most before i do a private tasting is usually, "so, what's this whole 'old world/new world' thing i always hear wine people talking about?" i'm sure that's why the "old world/new world"-themed tastings i do are the most popular. but it also gets to the root of what's been happening with wine in general over the last 30 to 40 years. the concept of old world/new world didn't really exist in the early 1970s. respectable wine came from france, straw-bottle chianti came from italy and gallo came from california. then the revolution happened. innovators like robert mondavi and landmark events like the paris tasting of 1976 changed the landscape forever. the "new world" of wine emerged, and for the next several decades, wines would begin to fall squarely into two camps: old world and new world.

the first thing that distinguishes whether a wine is old world or new world is where it is made. this is becoming less and less so now, but is still somewhat applicable. areas of the world that have been important in winemaking for hundreds of years tend to fall into the old world category. the bordeaux, burgundy, rhone and loire valley regions of france; the piemonte, tre venezie and several other smaller regional spots of italy; germany; and much of spain and portugal are all considered old world. the united states, australia, south america, new zealand and south africa are considered new world. there are confusing areas, however, like the languidoc-roussillon area of southern france and the rioja area of spain that make wines that can be considered, taste-wise, both old and new world.

which brings us to the second category that distinguishes the two types of wine: taste. generally speaking, new world wines are what wine snobs call "fruit forward." what that really means is that when you take a sip of one of these wines, the first thing you taste is bold fruit flavor. old world wines may have a fruitiness to them, but that may not be the "main event," so to speak. there are many other earthier, spice-driven and herbal flavors that are hallmarks of the old world style wines. also, while new world wines are simpler, easier to drink on their own and, by some accounts, more immediately accessible, old world wines are more complex and are oftentimes better to pair with food.

another very important part of what differentiates old world wines from new world wines is climate and soil. old world areas tend to have soils that are less fertile and sometimes are downright rocky. this may sound terrible for growing grapes, but the struggle the grapes go through to thrive in these areas produces a lower yield, and therefore, more intense grapes with a stronger flavor. very often these regions also have cooler climates, which also prolongs the growing season, adding to the complexity. in many new world areas, soil is fertile and the climate is warmer. this produces a higher yield of grapes that ripen faster, making a wine that is often simpler, fruitier and higher in alcohol content.

the final component of what differentiates new world from old world is winemaking technique and philosophy. this is part of the reason why new world-style wines can be made in spain and the south of france. with new world wines, the emphasis is put on immediate enjoyment, with or without food. new american oak is often used, which imparts a stronger flavor and smell than french oak. with old world wines, the emphasis is often put on making wines that are complex and layered. oftentimes wines are made that aren't meant to be opened until many years after they've been released.

to get a good idea of how old world and new world wines compare, get two wines made from the same grape, but from different areas. a perfect example of an old world/new world pairing for pinot noir would be trying the domaine carneros pinot noir (new world) next to the chateau de la maltroye bourgogne rouge (old world). the difference will astonish you, and your palate will be illuminated.