Falafelling in Love With Maoz

By [Nancy J. Brandwein ] I?ve reviewed snacks from five falafel joints, but I haven?t featured a single falafel sandwich. The Middle Eastern chickpea balls always seem flavorless, dry, greasy or overpowered by soggy lettuce and tahini. Then Maoz moved in, and I had even more reasons not to eat falafel, or at least theirs. The name seemed suggestive of margarine spread, and their bad ad photos of goofy people amid flying vegetables were a turn-off, as was the command to ?veg out??as if eating kosher vegetarian fast food could equal the pleasure of sinking your teeth into a quarter-pounder. Yet Maoz had a loyal following from the start, and I?m about to join their numbers. The falafel sandwich ($4.95) contains five exceptional patties, with lightly crispy exteriors and moist green insides, chockfull of parsley and redolent of cumin. The secret to Maoz?s appeal, though, is in the fixings. You heap fresh toppings?from cukes and tomatoes to pickled carrots and beets?into the thick, warm falafel-full pita and drizzle your choice of sauce on top?from Israeli ?schug,? hot green chile sauce, to garlic sauce. You can return again and again to the toppings table, rearranging your balls?oops, patties?in the pita, adding ever more tasty, healthy vegetables, trying different sauces. ?Veg out, man,? she says, like a true convert. ? Maoz 2857 Broadway (betw. 110th and 111th streets) 212-222-6464 Got a snack attack to share? Contact NBrand@aol.com