From Counters to Cubicles

when i first visited my sister's office at a large midtown ad agency, she introduced me to mangia or, at least, the carryout counters that provide so many workers in soulless cubicles with heartwarming italian fare. problem was, it was so crowded i never got to sample the dizzying array of antipasti, pastas, hot entrees, sandwiches, soups and pastries! well, i recently returned there one late afternoon.

true, the steam trays looked like they'd been raided, but i found sustenance in incredibly tender, albeit lukewarm, braised beef and creamy oricchiette with mushrooms and peas. ($4.75/1/2 lb). less so in attractive grilled tuna or barley and corn salads; they had the same vinaigrette taste. still, if i were consigned to days in cubicle land, i'd have mangia's online ordering info bookmarked on my browser.

far better to go and look like a wide-eyed child at all the food begging you to "mangia! mangia!" like their interesting take on pizza ($4.95/slice). my warmed-up square slice was a really, really flat panini made of pressed rosemary focaccia with mozzarella and sun-dried tomatoes oozing out the sides. and the desserts-chocolate bomba ($1.50), signature orange mocha pinwheel and pistachio sandwich cookies (from $1.25) or fresh fruit tart ($3.25)-molto bene! -- mangia 16 e. 48th st. (near madison avenue)* 212-754-7600

-- got a snack attack to share? contact nbrand@aol.com

*see www.mangiatogo.com for three other mangia locations.