GOOD THINGS COME ON SMALL PLATES

Walking into Salumeria Rosi I thought of Brooklyn's The Jakewalk, a low-key bar that serves wines and whiskeys by the glass, a changing menu of artisanal cheeses and quality charcuterie, as well as inventive small plates. Yet Salumeria Rosi harkens back to the neighborhood Italian venues that Jakewalk and other trendy Smith Street restaurants have all but replaced. The salumeria is where Italians go daily to buy cured meats or eat trattoria-style dishes with a glass of Prosecco. Recently opened by chef Cesar Cesalle (Beppe) in collaboration with Italy's meat-curing Rosi family, Salumeria Rosi is buzzing. During my visit a cable TV shoot was in session, and I heard a pencil-thin blonde tell Cesalle "I'm a tripe virgin." The genial Cesalle, a bundle of rosemary bursting from his pocket, waxed lyrical about his tripe stew. Meanwhile, I sampled Porchetta Toscana, thin pink curls of tender pork loin seasoned with garlic and Tuscan herbs ($4); Gorgonzola Dolce, two creamy blue-veined dollops alongside candied walnuts ($5) and Cipolline in Agrodolce ($5)-small sweet-and-sour onions cooked in balsamic vinegar until melt-in-mouth tender. The only thing missing was bread or crackers. I'll ask for them next time, for I intend to come back bringing friends and family along. -- Salumeria Rosi 283 Amsterdam Ave. (at 73rd Street) 212-877-4800 Got a snack attack to share? Contact [NBrand@aol.com](mailto:NBrand@aol.com)