Latin Studies

The name is a pun, and the patrons look lighthearted on a weekend evening. Sounds like Los Angelos Negros on the speakers, at a volume that allows chatterers to hear their own conversations. OLA’s amber lighting, warm red woods, two-tiered seating, booths with festive striping, ceramic tiles and rosy scalloped votives create a comfortable scene, neither fancy nor slick. A solidly neighborhood crowd has discovered this welcoming joint and they’re happy it’s here. Lots of big cocktails pass by, notably a large mango ginger mojito ($9) crammed with mint and kaffir lime leaves. A pitcher of ruby sangria goes down nearby. It is composed of pomegranate, green apple, orange, lemon, brandy and red wine.

The special of Chilean scallops on the half-shell with creamy horseradish parmesan dressing sounds enticing. Tonight there is also a mixed seafood ceviche with razor clams and shaved calamari, in addition to the seven ceviches (salmon, mackerel, oyster, etc.) on the dinner menu. A glass of Valserrano Rioja ($7) stands up well to the spicy fare. The Argentinean Fabre Montmayou Malbec ($8) is smoother but also shyer. There’s a good selection of bottles from the Latin world here, and our waiter is knowledgeable (borderline obsessive) about wine.

The menu is an Atkins dieter’s dream; low-carb options are starred, and there is even a sugar-free panna cotta made with Splenda, the diet doctor’s sweetener of choice. Anecdotal info has revealed to me that Atkins works only if you have a lot to lose. The thin tell me that if you want to lose a little weight, you need to eat chicken, fish, vegetables and nothing more.

Our waiter is enthusiastic and well-versed as to offerings and their elements, and certainly attentive, but he attempts to lead us to over-order. For two people, three from the tapas or ceviche lists to start, an entree apiece and a shared dessert is ample. The tapas we’ve ordered are all easily shared. Oysters Rodriguez ($11) is a trio of panko-coated fried oysters served in their shells over fufu—an overly sweet plantain mush mixed with undetectable bits of bacon. The waiter urges use of the swaths of huacatay on the plate; it’s a complex, deep green peppery feta-and-lime sauce that counteracts the cloying porridge base. Without a doubt, this preparation is special and intriguing, but the poor little oysters get lost in the mix.

Crab-potato empanadas ($12) are golden pockets holding soft potato chunks and bits of crabmeat. Alongside, a stream of crema nata for dipping is garnished with small dollops of Uruguayan "Osetra" caviar, which flavor-wise is delightfully sharp and bright, but the wee eggs lack pop. Vinegary matchsticks of slaw add crunch. Again, it’s a fun and delicious starter, but I do not taste any crab whatsoever.

Smoked marlin salad ($13) is mostly like homemade picnic chicken salad, with the added pleasure of bites that impart a waft of take-charge smoke. The salad is served in little tacos of spicy, sturdy malanga shells and topped with slices of red and green jalapeno.

I take out pen and paper, as I need to prepare a demo lesson for an upcoming job interview, and the book editor across the table looks like a good guinea pig.

"I’m going to show you how to calculate the derivative of a function," I tell her. "It’s just the rate of change of a curve, okay?"

She answers, "Okay" but looks less than convinced.

A moment later: "So we multiply the coefficient by the exponent: what’s one times two?"

"One."

This is going to be more difficult than I thought.

A special of large, head-on shrimp ($30) benefits from grill smoke, and though the shrimp are glazed, their flesh is still standard. Better, their pilaf bed of sweet and spicy coconut rice with sharp pieces of pimiento enveloped by a mild green, light and sublime fava bean sauce; it’s perfection. Churrasco of beef tenderloin ($28) is thickly coated with an overly licoricey, creamy basil chimichurri sauce, which I find myself scraping away. The meat itself is very tender, but could be more flavorful. Cold crab salad accompaniment is likable but a bit wet; the crab, though labeled "chunky," is finely chopped and doesn’t pair especially well with the steak. Surrounding little cubes of queso frito are golden brown and fun to chew; love ‘em.

The place is filling up, and the chef looks relaxed. He’s walking around greeting friends and provides a nearby table with beautiful compartmentalized tasting trays. It’s good to be friends with the chef. At my own table, Colombian Supremo coffee ($5), served in a French press pot, is fragrant and robust. The waiter prefers the Finca la Tacita, a bourbon coffee grown in Guatemala’s Antigua region. There are teas and tea drinks ($5) like a Buccaneer made from rooibos, vanilla, coconut and chocolate.

For dessert, there is a baked Patagonia (baked Alaska with "Latin flavors"). Our flan de almendra ($8) is very good; firm and fresh with neither sog nor sag. It sits over minced mint in an orange syrup. A scoop of lime sorbet (far too sour to enjoy on its own) pairs well with the custard. Some unsweet orange slices adorn. Do not forget to eat the almond "crocante" cookie garnish; it is glossy with a sumptuous caramel flavor. Also offered are frozen treats, one a Presidente beer sorbet. And for next time, there is a dessert fondue for two ($16) of dulce de leche served with marinated fruit and a variety of Latin cookies, including coconut sushi, brownies, churros, financiers and mini jellies. Atkins indeed.

OLA is also open for lunch. The staff is friendly, the offerings are inventive and thought-out, but I could do with a few less ingredients in most dishes. It’s a daring menu for any neighborhood and a true treat to have up the block or around the corner. Sr. Rodriguez’s Midtown East minions already know they’re lucky to have him for a neighbor.

OLA, 304 E. 48th St. (betw. 1st & 2nd Aves.), 212-759-0590.

Mondrian Pastry

In Bloomingdale’s backyard, loads of moms with strollers file in and out of this glass-fronted import from the Island. Over-orchestrated melodramatic French versions of old standards are thankfully drowned out by the sound of 3rd Ave. traffic coming through the open double doors. In the front are black curvy-legged cafe tables by the windows as well as a communal table with a green grass centerpiece.

The fanciful patisserie in the display case are too pretty to eat. The cafe is decorated with large, full-color framed blowups of their handiwork. Foret noire is a cylinder of chocolate sponge cake, chocolate mousse, ganache, Grand Marnier-soaked cherries and a topping of chantilly cream. More casual (and less intimidating) fare includes a small ham and Swiss on floured ciabatta ($3), which has many paper-thin slices of lean ham and mustardy cheese. The bread is treated to a spread of sweet butter, and the sandwich is satisfying. A shiny, puffy, eggy and slightly sweet, thick brioche ($2.95) holds a plentiful rosemary-speckled, fresh goat cheese filling. It is a giant step up from your average gloppy cheese danish.

Very nice for breakfast, Mondrian opens at 7 a.m. A silvery tray is provided for eat-in-ers. There’re more filled brioches, among them chocolate chip and custard. A huge coffee ($2.25) to take away is steaming hot and kindly double-cupped for me. It’s dark and smooth enough to warrant return visits. A browned chain of glistening puff pastry tops a square of apricot danish ($2.75) that is filled with tender, juicy cooked apricots and moist almond paste. If this doesn’t wake you in the morning, nothing will.

Plastic-cupped tiramisu ($4) is topped by ragged bits of chocolate chip biscotti and elegant arcs of white chocolate. Beneath is a light, almost foamy, not-too-sweet custard and moistened, cakey layers, but there is no liqueur or espresso punch, so the result is somewhat lackluster. Still, it does its job as an afternoon pick-me-up.

The refrigerator case holds a selection of pre-made salads like chef’s or chicken, fresh-squeezed and bottled juices, vitamin waters and Pellegrino products. There’s breakfast stuff like fruit and yogurt, muffins and croissants. Pretty pastel double macaroons are on display. Almond cookies have bits of tutti-frutti and chopped nuts; they’re light and crispy. Vanilla cookies are simple, nut-flavored, blonde and tender. Darkest chocolate shortbread teardrops are for adults only; delicate in texture, sinfully rich and barely sweet. Cookies are $15 a pound. Mondrian also specializes in customized cakes. Shelves hold a lovely display of French packaged candies and Mariage Freres teas which, of course, I’m more in the mood to peruse than to purchase.

It’s great to have a bakery cafe so close to shopping, but there doesn’t seem to be much point in buying anything anymore—a dirty bomb could contaminate all your stuff for decades. So, might as well skip Bloomie’s and blow your cash on Mondrian’s over-the-top confections.

Mondrian Pastry, 1026 3rd Ave. (betw. 60th & 61st Sts.), 212-759-8730.