OH, TO NIBBLE ON A KIBBE

after a year of scouring menus for the best in inexpensive snacking, i've come to mine the "sides" and "appetizers" sections. for instance, you can go into sido falafel and more, a sweet, mainly takeout place, and order the usual falafel or lamb schwarma sandwich, but you might miss some treasures-like kibbe krass ($2.75) or the soup of the day ($3.95). a kibbe seems like a mideastern version of peru's papa relleno, without the papas. wheat germ spiced with cinnamon is shaped into a small football-shaped snack and the middle is packed with ground lamb and pine nuts. one online reviewer called it "a perfect little torpedo of minced lamb in a whole wheat shell." the torpedo is deep fried and served with a cooling mix of cucumber, tomato and yogurt.

by the way, the usual schwarma was pretty tasty, according to my husband, who couldn't keep his hands off my kibbe-krass!-or his spoon out of my lentil soup. expecting a bowl of army green lentils heavily dosed with cumin, i was pleasantly surprised by these butter yellow lentils, pureed to almost vichyssoise consistency. the taste was subtle and as buttery as its color, the perfect antidote to yet another 20-degree day. -- sido falafel and more 403 amsterdam ave. (near 79th street) 212-874-2075

got a snack attack to share? contact nbrand@aol.com