The Last One Standing

There was always a familiar celebrity face seated at one of the red lipstick banquettes in front that created a buzz. Wasn’t that Jackie O? And, hey look, there’s Miss Imelda Marcos sporting a brand new pair of Manolos! Then there was Capote: He preferred sitting at the first table on the left, accompanied by one of his “swans”—his bevy of glamorous society doyenne like Babe Paley, Pamela Harriman, Gloria Guinness, Oona Chaplin, Slim Keith or C.Z. Guest. “The frog pond,” as they affectionately called the eatery, was their headquarters. “The ladies who lunch” or as Women’s Wear Daily labeled them, “the lunch bunch,” adored the delicious classic French food, the impeccable service and, of course, the extravagant, fragrant flower arrangements placed dramatically throughout the room. After all, the lighting is golden—bathing the diners’ faces with the kind of glow you find in Tuscany, so nice for the complexion. Maybe that’s why La Grenouille has always been the setting for romance and intrigue.

Haute cuisine in New York City today is like haute couture. It feels decadent, a remembrance of things past in an era when French gastronomy reigned and manners were genteel. But that’s a treasure we shouldn’t be so quick to discard. Parisians are far less fickle than New Yorkers; their dining institutions are revered and don’t shut down for the latest trend in food. Lutece, La Cote Basque and La Caravelle have all closed. There are, of course, other fabulous restaurants in NYC, but few provide the guilty retro pleasure you can enjoy at La Grenouille.

My recent lunch at La Grenouille was a voyage back to my own past, meeting a “player” who lavished me with Yves St. Laurent dresses when I was a twentysomething and wore a size 6. We’d languished over many a meal there, and I knew it was the perfect atmosphere for a reunion. Now forced to toil at a desk, I’d take a long lunch hour. “I have an appointment,” I told my secretary. Explaining La Grenouille to people who eat Lean Cuisine and Power Bars was a waste of time.

They gave us a plum spot at the front. Of course, the restaurant was only half full, and instead of society matrons, the diners mostly wore suits—more male than female. The waiter and sommelier danced around us, attentive to our every whim. After a couple of gin and tonics to ease the pain of Midtown traffic, we ordered a bottle of crisp Pascal Jolivet Sancerre, a 2004 vintage of Chateau Nozay at $70. (You can order wine costing anywhere from $60 to $3,000.)

The prix fixe déjeuner, fixed price lunch, is $59 and includes an appetizer, main course, dessert, petits fours and amandes au chocolat. The menu hasn’t changed much over the years, and why mess with a good thing? After all, their ingredients are excellent, as is the preparation. I tried the little necks Corsini, the baked clams they’ve served since the restaurant opened in 1962. My date had endive salad studded with pear, walnuts and Roquefort cheese; both appetizers were very good. The special of the day, Pot au Feu, French-boiled beef with carrots, turnips, celery and onions surrounded by a tasty broth, is a simple country dish, and I was glad I chose it. My friend had the roasted chicken “Grand-Mère,” and it was just as homey and succulent as any talented grandmother could make. Le Soufflé au Grand Marnier costs an extra $9.75, but it’s a must: Light, creamy and sweet, it’s deservedly their signature dessert.

The prix fixe dinner menu is a bargain at $95. Many of the appetizers, entrees and desserts are the same at dinner, but you could try lobster and tarragon ravioli ($15 supplement) or blinis with Oscietra caviar ($175 supplement). Not cheap, but if someone else is paying, go for it.

You really can’t go wrong with any dessert here, but if you’re going to splurge, I suggest one of the soufflés or les Oeufs à la Neige—snowy egg meringues. Then, there’s the bitter chocolate tort with vanilla ice cream and warm apple tart with vanilla ice cream. Yum! You can order the appetizer or dessert for $29 a la carte and $52 for the entrée at dinner. If you need to economize or just want to check the place out and chill, pick a spot at the swanky bar. For $14, try the leek tort, endive salad or pea soup. For $19, go for sausage and lentils, mushroom risotto or duck and pistachio terrine. And for $27 more, entrees like chicken curry, cod, smoked salmon or the hors d’oeuvre selection make a great meal. But even for $14, you can choose the dessert cart or warm bitter chocolate tort or warm apple tart. Soufflés are $17.50 and, for pure indulgence, with a little champagne on the side, you’re in food heaven.

Is La Grenouille an anachronism? Could be, but I always loved my grandmother, and she was old, too. I was hoping to run across the street to Cartier to pick up a bauble, but there wasn’t time. My date left in his Mercedes, and I rushed back to work. Long, lazy lunch hours over Sancerre and Grand Marniere soufflés are oh so nice. But then the world inevitably intrudes.

La Grenouille 3 E. 52nd (betw. 5th & Madison) 212-752-1495