The Onion

THE ONION I'm sitting in my kitchen, crying. Some generic electronica is on the radio, sub-zero wind outside, steam off the stove.

These are the most pungent onions I have ever cut. They are also the most essential ingredient in the dish we're having for dinner, one of my favorites. No one is quite sure where the onion originated, though many believe it was Asia. It's difficult to say with certainty because, among other reasons, the interior layers are consumed entirely, and the skins disintegrate to leave little to no trace. Most agree that onions were part of the daily diet of prehistoric man. Unfortunately, the concept of dental hygiene came later, long after the use of onion skin as parchment.

Today, the average American eats 18 pounds of onions per year (for perspective: the average American also eats 23 pounds of pizza and about 12 pounds of chocolate).

The onion is consumed in such high quantity due to its versatility and variety. Onions for breakfast? How about a western omelette, home fries or hash. Lunch time? Hamburgers, pizza, curries, chili, lasagne, burritos, gyros or soups. They can be sweet, as in caramelized onion and white cheese tarts, or sharp and jagged, as when minced and drizzled atop a mild, creamy bisque. (I like thin, red rings in my salads.) They can be chopped, sliced, minced, diced or left whole and deep-fried to make rings. In some recipes, they are pureed to add almost invisible flavor or body. You'll find them in jars, as well-pickled, dehydrated, minced, powdered or as salt. Onion purees are even available in tubes.

There's also an incredible range of varieties and flavors (even colors) of onions. Walla Walla, Vidallia. Storage vs. fresh onion.

A bedrock of foods of all types, no one can lay claim to the onion. It transcends all culinary boundaries and is found in foods from almost every nook of the globe. If you are a fan of this flower, as well as a food lover, you can expand your vocabulary of dishes innumerably by hitting the food trail and finding a new favorite dish, with onion as the backbone.

SWEET ONION AND HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD

1 large sweet onion (Vidallia or WallaWalla, for instance)

2-3 large heirloom tomatoes of different colors

Slice onions and tomatoes into 1/2-inch-thick rounds. Lightly salt the tomatoes and place in a colander to drain for about 1/2 hour. Alternately layer tomatoes and onions on a plate, to create a rainbow effect. Add cracked pepper, drizzle with olive oil or salad dressing of your choice.

Note: Add fresh mozzarella and basil, serve with crusty bread and it becomes a meal.