Wintertime Cabernets

Nothing warms up a cold winter"s night like this wine By [Josh Perilo] The trunks have officially been pulled out from underneath our beds. The poplins, linens and seersuckers have been neatly folded and shoved to the back of our closet shelves. The big freeze has officially moved in for its long-term engagement. While to most people this signals the beginning of their least favorite season, I relish the cold weather and all that it brings. Aside from the fact that I feel twice as productive in the winter, I adore snow, braised foods, cable-knit sweaters and, above all, full-bodied red wines. What better reason is there than to curl up with a good book and a glass of heavy, garnet vino than a cold December night? I have written at length before about the Cabernet Sauvignon grape, of course. One of the most prolific varietals in the world, it needs no real introduction. A wine writer could risk sounding like a broken record by returning to the same subject too often. During this time of year, however, discussing some of the best, reasonably priced Cabs on the market is a subject worth revisiting. For your cold winter nights, these wines will warm you from top to toe. For those who desire an easy-drinking Cabernet that needs no food and isn"t too big, I recommend the Huarpe Taymente Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 ($13.99 @ Bacchus of New York City, 2056 Broadway betw. 70th and 71st streets, 212-875-1200). This is the essence of what Cabernet has come to mean in the â??new world market. While maintaining some of the tannic structure you expect from a fuller-bodied version of the grape, this wine is all about dark berry fruit. With lots of smoky cherry and currant on the nose, the palate follows with intense flavors of blackberry preserves and vanilla. The flavor profile finishes with hints of oak and pipe smoke. If something a little more classic is what you"re looking for in your Cabernet, look no further than the Rombauer Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 ($21.99 @ K&D Wines, 1366 Madison Ave. betw. 95th and 96th streets, 212-289-1818). This Cab hails from Napa Valley, and definitely tastes like it. It is aged a bit longer than many entry-level Cabs on the market, and the end result is a more concentrated, complex and focused product. Even the dark, claret coloring from the first pour indicates that this is an old-guard, meat-and-potatoes wine. Scents of cedar, anise and dried fruit rise from the glass. After the first sip, flavors of baked cherry, cinnamon and oak push through to a pepper and date-laden finish. While this wine is great by itself, it works even better with a steakâ?¦ or dark chocolate! For those who crave something from the old world, a great wine for a moderate price is the Chateau Fourcas Dupre 2005 ($35.99 @ Yorkshire Wine and Spirits, 1646 First Ave. at 85th Street, 212-717-5100). This wine tastes like one of the big boys, but costs a fraction of the price. That"s because the Fourcas hails from the sub region of Listrac, which is just below the larger and more popular Haute Medoc area. Its close proximity to some of the most expensive wines in Bordeaux helps make it a great value. The smell from the glass will remind you immediately which continent this wine is from. While there are hints of fruit, the main event here is the earthiness and mild herbal notes. On the palate, the wine becomes even more layered. Again, while there are mild flavors of plum, the focus here is, instead, on structure and complexity. After the plum fades from the front of the palate, the middle presents a massive amount of tannin and baking spice. On the finish, the tannins relent and a tiny bit of oak peeks through, accompanied by hints of spearmint and wet clay. This is a wine that calls for a slow-cooked piece of meat, like braised mutton or spare ribs. It is a magnificent bottle of Cabernet-based Bordeaux. So, whether you decide to stay here in the new world or travel abroad, let Cabernet warm your chilly urban nights. Hopefully, come summer, you"ll think back fondly of the winter because of it! _ josh@pennilessepicure.com